A Tale Of Two Coffeehouses.
By Rebecca Cook
No doubt about it, the gourmet coffee craze that landed Seattle
a place in the heart of all true java lovers has finally wended
its way south to our own beloved metropolis. Whereas it once took
some maneuvering to find a decent cup of espresso in this town,
now it's only a question of looking through the Yellow Pages to
find the coffeehouse nearest you.
While caffeine junkies (myself included) applaud this booming
phenomenon, it must be said that a quantity of choices does not
necessarily translate into widespread quality. For that, one must
consider the art of the barista.
A barista is the person behind the coffeehouse counter or espresso
bar who prepares the various coffee drinks listed on the menu.
If you're truly interested in pursuing the ultimate coffee experience,
pay close attention to this individual, for it is here where the
quality in your cup is determined.
More sophisticated and elaborate espresso machines have lured
many businesses into assuming that just about anyone can be hired
to push buttons and produce an adequate cup of joe. Not so, as
a cursory survey of several establishments will quickly demonstrate.
While in this country, the person brewing your coffee is most
likely a minimum-wage, part-time worker who most likely considers
this job temporary, in Italy the barista's is a coveted position.
It's not just an idle stopover in one's employment history, but
a career, a vocation that requires a lengthy apprenticeship dedicated
to developing an expertise in the art of coffee making.
I bring this subject up because I've found that my pleasure in
seeing Tucson's coffee industry expand has frequently been tempered
by the reality of too many mediocre or even dreadful cups of coffee
brewed in fancy espresso machines. I've come to the conclusion
that it's the barista who makes the difference, an essential truth
that only a handful of coffeehouses seem to recognize.
To illustrate this argument, I offer the Tale of the Two Tucson
Coffeehouses. Both are new, have shiny, button-imbued equipment
and are simultaneously contemporary and chic. The difference is
that one upholds and takes pride in a tradition of producing outstanding
brew while the other just seems to want to mass produce it, utilizing
whatever staff is standing closest to the espresso machine. Guess
which one is better?
The Native Café has moved into the digs formerly occupied
by the Milagro Café, which many will remember with something
akin to reverence. How gratifying to discover that the North Campbell
Avenue space is once more inhabited by tenants who appreciate
a Southwestern bistro sensibility.
The terra cotta adobe exterior remains intact, as does an interior
that features minimal but elegant furnishings and recessed lighting
that artfully displays some colorfully striking artwork. Best
of all, the Native Café has embraced the idea of elegant
cuisine at modest prices, although this time the menu definitely
reflects a macrobiotic influence.
And of course, there's coffee. The Native Café is a coffeehouse
of singular class, distinction and--thank you, God--TASTE. Order
a latte here and sit back to await an oversized cup of steaming
hot beverage: rich, full-bodied and loaded with dark roasted flavor.
Ask the counter person about different coffees and he or she can
speak knowledgeably about the offerings. Watch the preparation
of your drink and observe the careful process the servers demonstrate.
Coffee drinks are presented with pride here for the express enjoyment
of the customer. Maybe these workers don't fancy a lifetime in
the barista trade, but they're well on their way should they decide
to develop a career in coffee.
Although the Native Café's menu is predominantly wholesome,
this in no way should infer lackluster platters of greens and
grains. On the contrary, the listings are intriguing and appetizing,
no matter what your usual unhealthy food preferences. Lunch and
Sunday breakfast are the only meals currently served at the restaurant.
Sandwiches, salads, an array of meatless burgers, various chapatis
and soup present tempting choices, along with a drink menu that
features a mouth-watering selections of smoothies, natural juices
and that scrumptious, verdant restorative, wheatgrass.
The only meaty items on the menu consist of a tuna schooner,
chicken sandwich or a chapati served with marinated strips of
chicken.
Everything is served consummately fresh, with even the baked
items (the cranberry-orange scones are excellent, by the way)
made on the premises.
The day we arrived, a spicy African peanut soup was featured
for the day, its nutty aroma filling the space with a tempting
siren scent. Velvety smooth and warming in every sense of the
word, the soup was a welcome relief on a rainy, blustery day.
This was an adult way to enjoy peanut butter, with a little red
chile fire, onion and garlic. Wonderful.
The vegetarian burgers are unparalleled, finally incorporating
spice, texture and savory accents into a food item that has far
too often struck me as the equivalent of eating mushy cardboard.
I sampled the Mayan spicy grain burger and was rewarded with a
patty that actually held together as it was consumed. It imparted
plenty of heat as well as the permeating fragrance of minced garlic
and cumin. I can't say I'll give up the backyard barbecue for
good, but I wouldn't hesitate to order this or another burger
on my next visit to the Native Café.
Salads looked grand here. In particular, I enjoyed the bruschetti,
a tossed mix of toasted-bread croutons, leafy green lettuce, tomatoes,
fresh basil, garlic and olive oil. Wonderfully flavorful and crunchy,
this salad would be an ideal companion to a fine glass of wine.
Alas, this is not an option at the Native Café. Fortunately,
there are so many other wonderful things going on there that the
absence of the grape is hardly missed.
Which brings me to the other half of my story, Coffeehouse Number
Two.
Friends Coffeehouse made a name for itself over the last few
years in the northeast part of town. Apparently the owners wished
to expand their surroundings, and so have recently shifted operations
to a convenient location near Speedway and Kolb in the same conglomeration
that houses multiplex movie theaters. The notion that people like
to gather following a viewing of a stimulating flick is a wise
one, and I'm sure many will find their way through Friends' doors.
Be advised, however, that once inside the conversation may be
the only thing you'll find stimulating.
Friends' tall exterior is eye-catching as you cruise up Kolb,
with bold colors of mauve and rust. My first impression was that
it was real-estate or title office. Inside is a lofty space accented
with tall windows and wood tabletops inlaid with game boards as
well as the yin and yang symbol. It's hip, it's sleek, and vaguely
sterile for a coffeehouse. I searched in vain for the familiar
clutter of newspapers and magazines.
We stepped up to the counter with a request for a tall vanilla
latte and cappuccino.The young woman behind the counter seemed
mystified by our order. After turning around several times to
check the hanging menu board, she puzzled about how to ring it
all up on the state-of-the-art cash register. Finally, she asked
for help. Our confidence in her sank; if she couldn't figure out
how to ring a fairly uncomplicated sale, how would she ever master
the shiny machine lurking behind her?
In fact, she didn't. The latte arrived in a miniature mug barely
big enough to hold a single espresso. To make matters worse, the
milk froth was rapidly diminishing, revealing a half-filled portion
that was already too petite in my opinion. The temperature of
the tiny thing was tepid, the vanilla flavoring apparently forgotten.
Friends grinds its own beans, but I found the taste a bit too
toasty, perhaps even burnt. Not good.
My friend fared a little better--at least her coffee was hot--but
she also found the flavor bitter and unpleasant. Although a few
basic sandwiches and salads are offered at Friends, we confined
our sampling to the pastries, a selection that included muffins,
scones, cinnamon rolls, cakes and sweet rolls. The cinnamon bun
was the highlight of the morning, a spiral of raisin and spice
lightly glazed and tastefully avoiding the trap of cloying sweetness.
The cherry scone was less successful, curiously doughy and dry
at the same time.
I also have to confess that I was irked by the presence of televisions
inside Friends, which were all tuned to ESPN the day we visited.
Sports espresso bars may be the latest thing for all I know, but
it was a new experience and not particularly an enjoyable one.
Fortunately, it wasn't game day.
Who would have thought there could be such high coffee demand
in Tucson? A real barista, that's who. Seek one out for yourself.
The Native Café. 3073 N. Campbell Ave. 881-8881. Open
7:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 7:30 to midnight
Friday and Saturday, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m Sunday. No alcohol. V, MC,
checks. Menu items: $2.95-$8.95.
Friends Coffeehouse. 800 N. Kolb Road. 722-1129. Open 7 a.m.
to 11 p.m. daily. No alcohol. V, MC, checks. Menu items: $2.50-$7.95.
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