One Man's Fortune Is Another Man's Folly On The Banks Of The Hassayampa.
By Kevin Franklin
JUMPING ON TOP of a boulder, I find myself directly over
two dogs and their owner, who're enjoying the
pleasant pools of Wolf Creek, near Prescott. Who's surprised
whom is up for debate, but the dogs angrily sound the alarm, nearly
causing their master to fall backwards into the pool in his haste
to find out what manner of creature has materialized on the rocks
above him.
"Howdy!" I say, attempting to stem the crack of gunfire
and the clamp of a dog on my calf.
After initial greetings and corralling of canines, we get down
to business. Arizona wild pool hunters are like the prospectors
of yesteryear. Everyone wants information about likely strikes,
but no one wants to surrender their own secret spots. Sometimes
exchanges can be made, but like stone-faced poker players, no
one wants to tip his cards until they know what's in the pot.
"You find any pools upstream?" he asks.
This is when I look at my hand and find a discouraging diversity
of cards.
"Well," I say in my best pity-me-I-just-got-to-this-table
tone, "I just came upon the stream a few hundred yards back.
There wasn't much up there."
"Oh, well, you know if you go down the road to a green gate
and hike down that road, there's some real deep pools."
"Yeah? How deep?"
"Over my head."
Jackpot! I think to myself. I've scored the first round of chips
on the house. I offer my thanks and head back through the ponderosa
forest to my truck.
Wolf Creek is one of the tributaries that feeds into the Hassayampa
River. Marshall Trimble writes in Roadside History of Arizona
that this waterway figured prominently in the founding of Prescott
in particular, and in the formation of Arizona as a territory.
Lieutenant Jack Swilling, a Confederate soldier, found gold nuggets
along the banks of the Hassayampa before the war. He mentioned
the discovery to his Union prisoner, Captain William McCleave,
who passed the story and a few nuggets along to his commanders.
The story and the nuggets eventually made their way to Washington,
D.C., thereby advancing the decision to make Arizona a territory.
In 1863, legendary mountain-man Pauline Weaver led the A.H. Peeples'
expedition up the Hassayampa. On what would later be called Rich
Hill, the expedition discovered the richest placer gold strike
in Arizona history.
Today I'm not looking for gold, but instead a deep, cool, mountain
watering hole. I find the green gate and walk down the described
road. After reaching the creek and hiking about a mile up and
downstream, I find no pools.
Damn card shark.
Knowing he had his feet in the best pools around, I suspect the
guy with the dogs gave me the old Lost Dutchman story to get me
away from his bounty: There's something better just over those
hills on the horizon, why don't you go check it out? It's an old
tactic, and has been practiced on this very stretch of water for
over 100 years.
In Arizona's Names, Byrd Granger writes, "In Arizona
miner lore, (the Hassayampa) stream came to be associated with
liars, more specifically, prospectors who evaded direct answers
about their locations or those who bragged about how good their
finds were. Such men explained their lies by saying they drank
Hassayampa River water that rendered them unable to speak the
truth." Makes you wonder if that's what's being bottled and
delivered to the state capitol these days....
Finding more humor than anger in the situation, I hop in my truck
and drive along various U.S. Forest Service roads. Here and there,
the road reconnects with the same watercourse, now the full-fledged
Hassayampa River. It's still a creek, except maybe during storms.
Nevertheless, the water has created lush riparian areas as it
cuts through the Bradshaw Mountains.
A bobcat darts across the road. Later on I brake for a mild-mannered,
black-tailed rattlesnake. I get out and watch him make his way
into the bush.
One of the most pleasant stretches for those who want to amble
along the riverside is Forest Service Road 72, between Wilhoit
and Kirkland Junction. Most high-clearance vehicles won't have
any trouble driving this road, though there are a few steep spots
that could give two-wheel-drives trouble in rain.
It's a beautiful and surprisingly quiet area. Just don't expect
anyone languishing on the water to give you a straight story.
Getting There
The Hassayampa River runs just east of Highway 89, from Prescott
down to Wickenburg.
|