Tucson Is Blessed With Three New Purveyors Of Cuisine Fit For A Potentate.
By Rebecca Cook
MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE is enjoying a significant renaissance
in and around the University of Arizona campus.
Long popular with a select audience of émigrés,
non-meat eaters and '60s-styled hippies, Middle Eastern cooking
has recently attained a substantially broad-based appeal, primarily
due to its emphasis on simple, fresh and natural ingredients,
which are ideal for today's heightened sense of health consciousness.
Middle Eastern cooking seems to have it all: Vegetarians thrill
to the plethora of offerings made without a trace of animal fat,
while steadfast carnivores can gnaw lustily on a variety of skewered,
grilled meats. The incorporation of fresh vegetables and herbs,
whole grains, exotic spices and mono-saturate olive oil make this
ethnic cuisine the epitome of healthy dining. Protein, fiber and
taste literally collide in a whorl of nutritious goodness.
Three new Middle Eastern restaurants--Andalus Restaurant, Ali
Baba Restaurant & Market, and Famous Pita--are currently inundating
the Tucson market with a desert storm of hummus, falafel and shish
kabob.
With its daily selection of traditional Lebanese fare, Andalus
shines brightly amid the cluster of other small businesses on
University Boulevard, just a stone's throw from the UA's main
gate. Although Andalus has a standing menu, it was our experience
that not every item is available every day. The payoff is that
occasionally wonderful little surprises not listed on the menu
make guest appearances.
So, instead of the seasoned baba ghanoush eggplant puree
we were craving, we were treated to a few pocket pastries, baked
until golden and filled with feta cheese, herbs and chopped spinach.
Our disappointment over the absence of eggplant dip was quickly
forgotten once we indulged in the featured "pies," a
delicacy not unlike a vegetable-stuffed empanada. The faint hint
of nutmeg and a dash of fresh oregano elevated these appetizers
to main-course status. Throw in a small serving of Andalus' artichoke
salad with its pungent garlic and fresh ground pepper, and you'd
easily have the makings of a complete meal.
The falafel here was distinguished by the addition of hummus
as well as lettuce, chopped tomato, red onion and, of course,
button-sized patties of ground garbanzo beans and seasonings.
Enhancing the ensemble was an extraordinary puff of pita bread--light,
fluffy and warmed in a special device right before our eyes.
Andalus' pita is wrapped around the contents of the sandwich
rather than halved, split and stuffed. The result is somewhat
messier, but eminently more satisfying. The falafel is nicely
crisped and brown, aromatically seasoned with onion, fresh parsley,
garlic, cumin and coriander. The hummus projects a distinct tahini-sesame
flavor with a faint tang of fresh lemon for good measure, making
this the ultimate condiment for the sandwich.
The combo shawerma platter consisted of tender, slow-roasted
pieces of chicken and beef marinated in olive oil, lemon juice
and garlic. Served over a bed saffron rice (or a nest of French
fries--an apparent nod to the dubious taste preferences of many
American college students) and combined with an aioli-type garlic
sauce, the dish was wonderfully savory.
Just up the road from Andalus, on East Speedway, is Ali Baba
Restaurant & Market, which also specializes in Middle Eastern
food. As the name implies, this wonderful business will sell you
all the ingredients you need to recreate the cuisine at home.
Still in the process of setting up shop, Ali Baba is a bit stark
in appearance at the moment. Nevertheless, it's fun to amble up
and down the market aisles, perusing shelves laden with spices,
rose water, tea sets and extra-virgin olive oil. Refrigerated
cabinets showcase brined olives, ground lamb and fresh pita.
Ali Baba's food is made to order while you wait, which means
that if your interest is carry-out, you'd better call in your
order ahead of time (unless you need to do some shopping).
Baba ghanoush was plentiful at Ali Baba, and well worth
the wait--mashed thoroughly, but not pureed into an unappetizing
pulp. We could still detect bits of eggplant, creamily seasoned
with sesame butter, lemon juice and fresh garlic, and begging
to be scooped up with a handful of pita bread. This is a grand
dip, appropriately fit for potentate or starving college student
alike.
Of the grilled meats, chicken appears to be the specialty of
the house. Whereas the beef and lamb dishes seemed a bit too chewy
or excessively salted, the chicken was nicely browned, tender,
moist and expertly flavored with a well-balanced marinade of vinegar,
garlic and oil. Particularly pleasing was the shish tawook,
niblets of chicken served over rice and drizzled with a buttery
tahini sauce.
Ali Baba wins the prize for the best selection of Middle Eastern
desserts, all of them visible through the glassed-in pastry counter
near the cash register. Gazing at these delights, it soon becomes
obvious that baklava is but the tip of the iceberg. You'll also
find birds' nest (crispy layers of baked filo dough filled with
whole pistachios), fingers (flaky filo dough cigar-rolled around
sweetened, ground cashews), ballourie (lightly baked and
shredded filo, with chopped pistachios kissed with a trace of
rose water) and something called Turkish delight (a dried fruit
confection permeated with chopped nuts and rolled in powdered
sugar. If you have a hankering for something sweet, you'll be
thoroughly enamored with Ali Baba's pastry display.
My only complaint is that there was no Turkish coffee on the
menu to wash this sweet stuff down, a lamentable omission.
In terms of sheer abundance of food, Famous Pita on North Campbell
Avenue may constitute the best deal in town. To account for variable
appetites, the restaurant provides patrons with two dining options:
order individual items off the menu, or pay one sum for an all-you-can-eat
buffet. Vegetarians can fill their plates again and again for
just $5.99, whereas for two bucks more you can nibble away on
chicken or beef to your heart's content.
Owner Sam Darwish is a hoot behind the buffet counter, constantly
encouraging his guests to try this or that dish and emphasizing
his suggestions by popping the food in question expertly into
your mouth as you open it in reply.
Darwish is particularly proud of his highly spiced marble-sized
falafel, which can be piled onto any buffet platter. Other buffet
selections include hummus; several salads (including the fresh
parsley and cracked-wheat tabbouleh; and fattouche,
which features chopped cucumber, tomato, onion, parsley and diced
pita bread in a garlic-spiced yogurt dressing); spicy, stuffed
grape leaves; marinated red peppers; Middle Eastern pickles and
a variety of grilled vegetables, such as cauliflower, potatoes
and zucchini. Those new to Middle Eastern cuisine could do no
better than to start their apprenticeship at Famous Pita, where
one can easily try a little bit of everything.
Your meat of choice is ordered separately and arrives grilled
and served atop a mound of steamed saffron rice. The chicken kabob,
bite-sized morsels of tender, marinated meat coupled with grilled
onion and green bell pepper, was tender and flavorful, spiked
with just a hint of lemon and garlic.
When it comes to Middle Eastern food, Tucson is richly endowed.
Where to go? It all depends on what you're looking for, I guess.
If you happen to be a UA student, you won't have to stray too
far.
Andalus Restaurant. 923 E. University Blvd. 388-9808.
Open 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. daily. No alcohol. V, MC. Menu items:
$2.50-$6.99.
Ali Baba Restaurant & Market. 2545 E. Speedway Blvd.,
Suite No. 125. 319-2559. Open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through
Saturday. Closed Sundays. No alcohol. V, MC, checks. Menu items:
$1.99-$6.95.
Famous Pita. 2790 N. Campbell Ave. 795-6303. Open
10 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. No alcohol. V, MC, checks. Menu items:
$1.49-$7.99.
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