La Vista Is Little More Than A Pretty Package.
By Rebecca Cook
BEFORE DETAILING MY impressions of La Vista, the top-of-the-line
restaurant at the El Conquistador Country Club and Resort, it
might be helpful to share the main criteria I use in evaluating
a restaurant.
First and foremost is the quality of the food. I can endure a
wide range of inconveniences as long as there's that light at
the end of the tunnel. Innovation, creativity and character count
for a lot in my book. I thoroughly appreciate the restaurant that
steps outside of the mundane, endlessly repetitious chain mentality
that permeates our dining culture these days. From the affluent
aerie of Janos or the Gold Room, to the streetside charm of BK's
Hotdog & Taco Stand on South Sixth Avenue, a cadre of local
eateries exemplify some of the finest aspects of living and eating
in Tucson, Arizona.
Service is a close second, and periodically lifts a mediocre
dining experience to memorably pleasant. Topnotch service coupled
with a solid menu, such as at Daniel's or Anthony's in the Foothills,
can tip the scales to excellence.
But the bottom line for me is value: what kind of bang do you
get for your buck? It's one thing to have a merely adequate meal
for under $10, and quite another to fork out $50 for the same
kind of experience. Although I have the advantage of turning over
my dining bills to someone else, I well remember when it was my
own hard-earned cash that crossed the table. If a meal was outstanding,
I considered it money well spent.
Conversely, when the experience was less than stellar, I was--literally
and otherwise--a tad put out. In my role as a restaurant reviewer,
I aim to spare readers that bankrupt sense of chagrin.
With that in mind, although La Vista offers several pleasing
dishes and features, it fails to justify its somewhat pricey menu.
La Vista is solidly passable. Is that good enough when you're
spending close to $20 an entrée without the accompaniment
of soup or salad? You be the judge.
For years El Conquistador's high-end restaurant was the White
Dove, located inside the swanky northwest resort. Although the
resort still offers more casual dining, the big daddy now is La
Vista, located in the Country Club a few miles away from the resort
proper.
One of the advantages of this location is a breathtaking and
uninterrupted view of the surrounding mountains, desert and distant
city lights. White linen tablecloths, decorative oil candles and
live music by the jazz combo Styles (on Friday and Saturday nights
only) give an unmistakable air of urbane elegance.
Our server at La Vista almost immediately jarred the genteel
mood when she appeared tableside carrying several wine glasses
in both hands. As she wondered aloud if she could bring us anything,
her eyes darted furiously to other parts of the dining room, leaving
the impression that we had better make up our minds quickly as
she had better things to attend to.
Resisting the urge to wave our arms to get her attention, we
instead made the simple request for a few more minutes to peruse
the wine list.
As it turned out, this didn't take long. La Vista's wine list
is extremely abbreviated to primarily domestic choices, and these
without a vintage year to distinguish them. Odd.
Executive Chef and General Manager Steven Michael Braun (formerly
co-owner of Boccata Bistro) has imbued La Vista's menu with a
combined northern Italian and French sensibility, a disposition
reflected in such dishes as pâtés, pastas, duck confit
and rack of lamb served with cassoulet beans.
We ordered a wild mushroom soufflé ($7.25) and shrimp
cocktail with three sauces ($9.75) while examining the rest of
the menu more thoroughly.
The mushroom soufflé, while fairly tasty, was somewhat
of a disappointment due to its rather dense, meatloaf-like texture
and meek earthy flavor. Its sable morel sauce saved the dish with
its savory flavor.
Six large, chilled Guaymas shrimp--immaculately fresh, sweet
and firm--were served in duets on a colorful platter splashed
with classic red cocktail, Dijon vinaigrette and raspberry yogurt
sauces. The piquant red and mustard sauces worked well, but the
raspberry yogurt departure fizzled. Whoever imagined that this
sweet, fruity dip would enhance such magnificent shrimp was seriously
misguided. A garnishing nest of fried shoestring zucchini and
yellow squash similarly merited no more than a shrug.
Next up, a Roquefort salad of mixed mesclun greens, diced red
and yellow tomatoes, toasted walnuts and sliced Granny Smith apples
drizzled with a sharp, creamy dressing was serviceable but not
scrumptious. The toasty crunch of nuts, sour apple and tangy Roquefort
cheese dressing were quite enjoyable, but those faintly sweet
tomatoes stood out like someone in the orchestra playing off key.
The rest of Braun's menu, while not extensive, offers some interesting
possibilities. One is a polenta lasagna ($14.50) with slices of
grilled, marinated eggplant and zucchini, roasted red peppers
and caramelized onions layered with half-inch thick rounds of
this Italian corn-meal cake, gorgonzola, parmesan and marinara
sauce. The diminutive tower is surrounded by a moat of basil cream
sauce.
While we applaud the originality of this dish, there were some
glitches in the finished product. For one thing, the bottommost
layers had been unpleasantly burned, leaving them tough, chewy
and slightly bitter tasting. Also, all the effort seems to have
gone into the presentation; there's no vegetable, no pasta, no
garnish. This conservative portion would hardly have been enough
to quell a hearty appetite.
The châteaubriand ($24.50) suffered from a similar mood
of stinginess. Though this single slice of tenderloin beef was
quite tender and tasty (and well-paired with a deft and golden
tarragon reduction sauce), the portion seemed inordinately petite
for the price. In addition, the meat was overcooked to a pinkish
medium, rather than the deep red of the medium rare requested.
As an aside, I find it nearly impossible to get a steak served
rare these days. I can guess the reasons, but if a restaurant
asks the diner's preference, the least the kitchen can do is honor
it.
Side dishes of rosemary and garlic spaetzle and julienned summer
squash were not enough to fill the void, especially considering
the first was so potent as to ambush the palate, while the latter
limped behind, too overcooked and oily to be seriously considered.
The biggest success of the evening was a horseradish-encrusted
fillet of salmon ($17.25). Two modest fillets, lightly breaded
with herbs and fresh bread crumbs, were served atop a mound of
wild rice and sautéed spinach, making this entrée
the most prodigiously portioned. Unexpectedly, the bite of horseradish
reflected more in the accompanying mustard sauce than on the fish
itself. The combination of flavors worked well on this fresh,
flaky steak, rendering the breading almost superfluous.
Dessert trays here offer a host of after-dinner temptations,
ranging from homey fruit pies to extravagant profiteroles. On
the hostess' recommendation that the crème brûlée
($5.25) was "the finest in town," we ordered that along
with a cranberry napoleon ($5.50).
Both were remarkably light (which would have been greater appreciated
if our meals had been more substantial) and delicious. The crème
brûlée was indeed smooth, silky and speckled with
a generous grind of vanilla bean; and the napoleon, made with
ice cream and airy layers of crisp phyllo dough, was quite nice.
A bolder stroke with the pale cranberry sauce drizzled over the
whole would also have been welcome.
Coffee apparently is served in single servings with no refills.
Although we took our time nibbling on our desserts, our cups remained
empty long after drained of their contents.
So that, my friends, is La Vista: a restaurant that hopes for
great things, but has yet to wake up and smell the coffee. While
clearly there are sparks of genius here, the inconsistencies and
high prices fail to inspire accolades.
La Vista at El Conquistador Country Club. 10555 N. La
Cañada Drive. 544-1980. Open
11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, and
from 11 a.m. to
3 p.m. for Sunday brunch. Closed Mondays. Full bar. All major
credit cards, but no personal checks. Menu items: $4.75-$26.50.
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