...But La Cocina Needs To Tighten Up Its Service.
By Rebecca Cook
IT'S THE TRIUMVIRATE of food, ambiance and service on which
a fine restaurant struts its stuff.
We should count ourselves fortunate that Tucson fields so many
entrants into the elite realm of exceptional eateries. The local
list is long and constantly expanding as new restaurants appear
on the scene and earn their way into a coveted top spot. Not all
newcomers, however, are able to attain this lofty station. This
is perfectly understandable, perhaps even forgivable, but when
the food strains to achieve mediocrity, the service is as slow
moving as a glacial thaw and the prices a bit excessive, mercy
on the part of the diner becomes extremely strained.
La Cocina, the restaurant space attached to the east side of
Old Town Artisans (a popular place for Southwestern kitsch to
take to the folks back home in the Midwest), has a built-in clientele.
Visitors ogling the extensive Old Town Artisans gallery next door
find their way to its patio as if by design; people staying at
the nearby Holiday Inn discover a Tucson walking tour leads to
these historic doors; and it's a convenient stop by day for downtown
business people, and for concert and theatre crowds by night.
A new menu, new chef and spiffy little cantina have given the
restaurant a fresh facelift, but La Cocina has been open in one
guise or another for several years. By the looks of things, business
is brisk--so who cares if the food is merely adequate and it takes
forever to get your order? Well, I do.
Dinner on a recent Saturday night was a bustling affair. Several
tables had been reserved for the evening, and there was a steady
stream of drop-in traffic--a combination that soon had the place
completely filled. La Cocina boasts one of the most alluring dining
patios in town, and the weather being very mild that night, both
indoor and outdoor tables were in full swing.
If the adage about trusting first impressions has any validity,
we probably should have taken heed and rescheduled our visit.
There was a backup of guests near the front door, and there seemed
to be an unfortunate mix-up about dinner reservations for a very
large party. After standing aside and watching the resulting flurry
for about five to 10 minutes, we were finally attended to.
Although our name was on the reservation list, we had not been
assigned a specific table. This necessitated an urgent but hushed
conversation between the manager and the hostess, which ended
with our being ushered to what can only be referred to as the
"ghetto" table of the joint.
Now, every restaurant has some tables that are more auspicious
than others. And it's true that someone has to sit at that
station over by the kitchen and hallway to the bathroom, but let's
face it--we'd rather it wasn't us. Plopped right between the outdoor
entrance and a boisterous adjoining room, we had so much traffic
whizzing by our table it's a wonder we weren't caught in a tailwind.
As it was, the thoroughfare was rife with distractions, not the
least of which was my companion's chair, which rocked unsteadily
on the half-wood, half-carpet flooring throughout our meal. All
told, not the most favorable dining conditions.
Our waiter, who was very pleasant, immediately ascertained that
we did not hold tickets to any performance that evening. In retrospect,
our confession that we had nowhere else to go may have been a
tactical error. The pace at which the meal proceeded was so sluggish
that at times we feared we'd been completely forgotten.
About 15 minutes into it, we finally got to order drinks. Twenty
minutes after this small consolation, we placed the rest of our
order, which was rudely interrupted at one point by a manager
telling our waiter that another table wanted their bill. A full
40 minutes later, we saw the Old Town quesadilla ($11.95) we'd
ordered as an appetizer.
The grilled, folded tortilla came layered with melted havarti
and jack cheeses, a sprinkling of balsamic vinaigrette and mesquite
roasted eggplant, red onion and portabella mushrooms. Small scoops
of guacamole, sour cream and tomato salsa rounded out this platter.
Although the starter was quite tasty (the marinated zing of the
vegetables making an excellent match for its soft, mellow cheese),
it never impressed enough to justify the price tag. Perhaps the
lengthy wait dampened our enthusiasm.
It only took another 10 minutes or so for our salads to appear
(La Cocina's house variety is included with entrée orders).
With nothing more than some mixed greens, a few slivered carrots,
a couple of stale croutons and a wedge or two of unripe tomato,
this salad was a real snore. An overly oiled balsamic dressing
did little to relieve the tedium. At least the greens were fresh.
Eventually our entrées appeared, along with a basket of
bread and some warm garlic and herb-scented olive oil. The bread
should have been served even before the appetizers, and now seemed
to arrive as an afterthought. The baby back ribs ($16.95) were
plentifully piled on my plate, and had a nice slathering of spicy-sweet
sauce, but I found them a great deal of effort for very little
meat. Some of that comes with the territory of this dish, but
add to this a jaw-tiring chewiness and the ribs fizzled entirely.
The garlic mashed potatoes accompanying them were quite tasty,
if a bit lumpy.
The tequila achiote prawns ($16.95) looked suspiciously like
your basic large Guaymas shrimp. Spicy enough to coax beads of
sweat, the prawns/shrimp were tender, mesquite grilled and imparted
only the faintest suggestion of musky achiote seed and tequila.
Roasted red potatoes modestly completed the platter.
Dessert, which not surprisingly was an ordeal to procure, was
also a disappointment. We opted for the chocolate, pecan and bourbon
torte ($6.25), which had, like the rest of the evening, its ups
and downs. The center of the small cake was filled with lusciously
melted dark chocolate, but the margins, which resembled a dense
shortbread, were unduly dry. The toasted goodness of the bourbon-caramel
sauce put some moisture back into the cake, but was too sparse
to complement every bite.
More than two and a half hours after we'd first entered the restaurant,
we departed filled but frustrated.
Sorry to say, the next visit proved even more disastrous. This
time we pulled up a chair at the casual and colorful Two Micks
Cantina and Grill, which is housed in a separate building just
off the central patio. Essentially a bar with a short inventory
of tables, Two Micks notably offers the same menu as La Cocina,
as well as a Happy Hour special of steamed shrimp for only $3
(the only bargain we could discern in the place). The small space
was humming this Sunday afternoon, and the bartender--who not
only seemed to be preparing drinks for both enterprises, but was
also the cantina's only designated waiter--was congenial but clearly
overwhelmed.
We tried small cups of the black bean chile ($3.75) and the chicken
tortilla soup ($4.25), finding both mostly satisfactory. The black
bean chili was simple and direct, a pleasant mash of the purplish
beans, some garlic and a handful of piquant spices, further enhanced
by the addition of raw, chopped red onion. The chicken tortilla
soup offered a spicy blend of green chile, tomato, onion, fried
corn tortilla strips and bits of chicken.
We'd planned to enjoy the wrap ($7.25), which turned out to be
a rolled flour tortilla filled with bland Caesar salad and a meager
portion of supposedly marinated chicken, along with a grilled
salmon tostada, which intrigued with its promise of an accompanying
strawberry salsa. After waiting over an hour, however, the wrap
was the only item to appear. The waiter misunderstood my order
as a salmon salad, and when the order was re-entered it disappeared
altogether. I never did get to try the tostada. We decided to
cut our losses and share the wrap.
Our bartender/waiter was most apologetic, and in fact insisted
on picking up our tab entirely--further insisting that all he
wanted was for us to be willing to come back another day.
I might, although the prospect doesn't thrill me. If I were an
out-of-town visitor, I'd probably chalk up the experience to yet
another touristy bistro and forget about it. But I happen to live
here, and if La Cocina wants to entice locals into becoming regular
customers, they're simply going to have to do better.
La Cocina. 201 N. Court Ave. 622-0351. Open 11
a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday
and Sunday; dinner is served from 4:30 to 8 p.m. Tuesday, Wednesday
and Sunday, and 4:30 to 9 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. Full
bar. All major credit cards accepted. Menu items: $3.75-$16.95.
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