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 Always Solid, Westward Look's Gold Room Now Sparkles With Its New, Southwestern Menu. By Rebecca Cook THE ANCIENT GREEK gods may have observed the fray of human activity from the lofty vantage point of Mount Olympus, but in Tucson one can simulate such ascendance simply by reserving a table in Westward Look's elegant Gold Room. For nearly 30 years, the resort's upper-crust restaurant has been a favorite of locals and tourists for desert getaways and special occasions. Situated on the southern slopes of the Catalina Foothills, its glass encased dining room and surrounding patio offer a spectacular, sweeping view of the city below. It's a fine spot for sunset and starlight views, punctuated by a panorama of twinkling city lights stretching across the horizon.
Although the resort has retained much of the understated western ambiance and charm for which it's well reputed, traces of modernization are particularly evident in the Gold Room, where the menu now reflects the best and most exciting aspects of Southwestern cuisine. You can still find remnants of the former kitchen offerings, but all have received new life at the hand of Executive Chef Jason Jonilonis. Not a single dish on his menu could be accused of being staid or predictable. Jonilonis incorporates the conservative comportment of the kitchen's past with the inspired verve of today's more inventive cooking. A two-part dinner menu is divided into "Chef's Regional Specialties" and "The Classics." The whole makes for such fun reading that you begin to feel like a spectator at a tennis match, eyes swiveling from side to side trying to decide on the night's fare. Exotic starters such as rattlesnake fritters served with smoked bell pepper beurre blanc nopales (prickly pear cactus leaves) and pico de gallo vie for table space with classic oestra caviar on toast points served with a dab of crème fraiche. Also tempting is the treatment of pâté, an ancho-dusted foie gras served with caramelized fig compote and sauterne glacé on pecan brioche. Wow. More middle-of-the-road approaches include a bowl of the wild mushroom bisque ($5) and Dungeness crab cakes ($11.50), which were both enormously satisfying. The bisque was pure ambrosia for the mushroom lover: a moderately thick and silken broth deliciously riddled with tiny bits of mushroom, a hint of garlic and the merest drizzle of crème fraiche. Scrumptious. The crab cakes were equally successful. Delicate patties of crabmeat flecked with finely chopped red pepper and chives were lightly browned on both sides, then served atop a lagoon of roasted tomato concasse and capers. Although the freshness of the crab was noteworthy, it was the sauce that sang here, with the briny zing of capers, a suggestion of citrus and ripe tomato mingling seamlessly with the firm fruits de mer.
Dizzy from our deliberations, we finally settled on a fresh thresher shark served meuniere style with white wine, lemon juice and butter ($26.50) and a blue-corn crusted pork chop in a reduced caramelized shallot jus ($24), with white tepary bean ragout, sautéed spinach and a nest of crispy sweet potato curls. (This meant that the mixed grill of quail, ostrich and wild boar chop would have to wait for another time, but such are the hard choices of the restaurant reviewer). The fish was consummately fresh and nicely grilled over an open flame, imbuing the aquatic steak with a pleasing, smoky character. Sauce and fish were mild enough to allow the full flavors of each to shine through unperturbed. The large platter on which the shark was served was graced with a geometric assortment of delicately sautéed vegetables, including triangular cuts of red bell pepper, oval miniatures of yellow squash, a tasseled baby carrot and diagonally cut spears of asparagus. The lovely composition left us uncertain as to whether the dish was more appropriately eaten or photographed. Jonilonis demonstrates food aesthetics at their finest. The pork chop constituted its own marvel. Fully three inches thick, it was the grandest pork rack I've ever been served. Miraculously, it was cooked throughout to the medium I had requested, remaining succulent and tender despite its size. The breading was light enough to avoid distracting, adding instead a gentle spicing of rosemary and sage. The reduction sauce was splendid--rich and redolent with the meat's own juices and the savory brilliance of fresh shallots. Marvelously well assembled. A separate dessert menu complements the host of offerings at the Gold Room, with choices ranging from a simple fruit and cheese platter to a dense and flourless chocolate torte. We opted for the white and dark chocolate nougat crunch cake ($6.50) and crème brûlée with an assortment of fresh berries ($6.50). Both were serviceable, but nowhere near the excellence of the other dishes we sampled. The checkered nougat crunch cake was lovely to look at, but proved dry at the edges. In addition, it lacked the promised texture, and its chocolate quotient didn't live up to the dark, sweet essence we'd imagined. The crème brûlée was tasty, imbued with the aroma of vanilla bean, but it was a bit too firm, never attaining that luxurious creaminess for which the dish is renown. It was saved by its luscious presentation with caramelized top and fresh raspberries, blueberries, strawberries and blackberries. Service at the Gold Room is friendly, efficient and even folksy (your server will likely have a name tag identifying his or her home town); the ambiance is genteel. Among its considerable merits is an extensive and well-chosen wine list featuring both domestic and international vintners. The Gold Room isn't inexpensive, but it's well worth the price. Fabulous food and a great view can go a long way towards a memorable occasion that's priceless.
The Gold Room (at Westward Look Resort). 245 E. Ina Road.
297-1151. Open from 5:30 to
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Dining at the Gold Room has always been an experience. For years,
however, the cuisine was strictly continental: several dishes
featuring prime cuts of beef, classic presentations like veal
Oscar or rack of lamb, baked potatoes and rice pilaf, and perhaps
a Caesar salad for two prepared tableside. It wasn't especially
exciting cuisine, but it utilized top-quality ingredients and
was a consistent crowd pleaser. The world of nouvelle was a long
way off.
A Caesar salad remains, but this time it's served "Sonoran
style" in whole leaf form straight from the kitchen, with
a piquant chipotle dressing ($8.25). Other popular greens include
the mixed baby greens ($8.50) tossed with orange poblano and roasted
chile vinaigrette with cornbread croutons, and a warmed spinach
salad ($8.75) served with a heated balsamic vinaigrette and crumbles
of blue cheese.
