Great Harvest Bread Co. Arrives In The Munching Pueblo. By Rebecca Cook CONSIDERED THE STAFF of life since ancient times, bread has been a focal point in the cuisines of many cultures. The French have their baguettes, the Jews their challah, the Italians their focaccia, the Middle East its pita and Mexico its tortillas. Bread, it would appear, is an indispensable foodstuff, as necessary to life as potable water. How fortunate it is for us that Tucson has become one of the newest homes for the Great Harvest Bread Co., a business franchise based out of Dillon, Montana, that specializes in making a variety of stone-ground and whole-grain breads. A far cry from the flavorless mass of gluten that passes for bread on the shelves of most grocery stores, Great Harvest Bread Co.'s products instead retain all the wholesome goodness that bread was meant to possess--a robust yeasty taste, a dense, slightly chewy texture and a subtly toasted, crunchy crust. Owners Kathy Cleere and Doug and Suzie Mattes fell in love with the Great Harvest Bread concept while in Naperville, Illinois, near Chicago. Recognizing that fate was calling them to be breadmakers, they began their nationwide search for a community that would support their new calling. Cleere, an Arizona native and graduate of the University of Arizona, suggested Tucson. Once the market had been evaluated and found prime for such a venture, all that remained was to make the move west and set up shop. More than just your typical bakery, the Great Harvest Bread Co. creates a world unto itself, an empire where bread rules. Although you'll find a few cookies and dinner rolls sold here, it's those stunning oval loaves that hold center stage. Much to the chagrin of some, Great Harvest insists that bread should have one shape and one shape only--round. Why not the more traditional rectangle, which fits so nicely into your toaster? "Because bread wants to be round; that's the shape it takes naturally as it rises," Suzie Mattes patiently explains. "A round loaf is more natural and produces a much fresher product overall. It's really quite simple--round loaves just taste better." Furthermore, don't expect to find bread at Great Harvest neatly sliced. Once a loaf has been cut into symmetrical sections, says Suzie, you've exposed all the bread to the air, compromising its freshness and drying it out. In case customers are a little shaky on this cutting-your-own-bread stuff, Cleere and the Matteses have thoughtfully provided instructional handouts on how this skill can be mastered. Bags of whole grains are regularly delivered to the store, where they're stone ground. This ensures the germ oil of the wheat is rubbed evenly into the flour, making the eventual finished loaf not only tastier but much less likely to turn rancid quickly. These folks take bread very seriously. The real question is, though, does all this pomp and circumstance result in a superior loaf? The short answer is a resounding yes. Slip your round loaf out of its wrapper, and everyone's likely to think you baked it yourself. If you've baked your own bread, you know how wonderful a homemade loaf fresh-out-of-the-oven can be. The bread at the Great Harvest Bread Co. is that good--maybe even better, considering some of the inspired variations they sell. How about a tomato-herb bread with garlic, basil, tomato, onion, rosemary and oregano? Or perhaps a good pumpernickel rye is more to your liking? Maybe the Dakota appeals to you--a whole wheat bread with millet, sunflower, pumpkin and sesame seeds added. Non-whole-wheat fans will adore the plain southwestern white bread, and children will be tempted by the cinnamon-raisin loaves (either white or whole wheat). Not every kind of bread is available every day and, if there's a particular variety you're interested in, be sure to consult the posted schedule to make sure your choice is being baked that day. No matter what kind of bread you settle on, it's all pretty darn wonderful; and toasted, with just a little butter added, it's downright addictive. Samples are always offered at Great Harvest, and customers are encouraged to stay for awhile, chat with the owners and share the camaraderie that only fresh-baked bread can engender. "We'd like to consider ourselves an alternative bread store," says Suzie Mattes. "We don't just want people to come in and eat bread. We want them to come in and have a great time. After all, that's what we're doing. They might as well join us." Great Harvest Bread Co. 7090 N. Oracle Road. 797-4666. Open 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday; 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Friday; and 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday. Two-pound loaves range from $3 to $5.

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