Two Downtown Landmarks Expand To The East Side.
By Rebecca Cook
ABOUT A MONTH ago, I had the strangest experience as I
was heading eastbound on Broadway.
First, I stopped at the light at Broadway and Wilmot Road, where
my eye wandered to the southeast corner of the El Mercado shopping
center. Imagine my surprise when I glimpsed a snazzy yellow with
the name "El Charro" blazoned across it.
Before I had time to ponder this conundrum (the only El Charro
in Tucson being downtown, as far as I knew), the light turned
green and the person behind me rudely encouraged me to move.
My travels took me to Kolb Road, where I hung a left and headed
north. I almost drove off the road when I saw yet another sign,
this one advertising El Minuto Café, another restaurant
usually associated with downtown Tucson.
For those of us who've been around this dusty town for awhile,
there's something vaguely disturbing about an eastside El Charro
or El Minuto.
Who can forget El Charro's once- open front patio, the site
of many thirst-quenching ice-cold beers accompanied by tostadas
grande covered with melted cheese? And El Minuto's singular hole-in-the-wall
charm and delicious food were deeply appreciated on those post-party
weekend nights.
Hey, I was dubious when each of these restaurants underwent renovation
at their downtown locations, so what was I to think about their
moves to the more affluent eastside? This demanded investigation.
Both new restaurants are considerably larger and more posh than
their older sister establishments.
El Charro has the upscale surroundings to help frame it, and,
along with its vivid purples, indigos and splashes of bold primary
colors, the place blends right in. The actual dining area is rather
small, the larger section of the space being devoted to the bar,
!Toma! Two. An outdoor terraced patio with additional seating
and wet bar will provide a suitable dining alternative once the
weather turns warmer.
El Minuto eastside could be the upper-scale dining room in a
large metropolitan hotel--its vaulted ceilings, terra cotta interior,
and raised side booths are reminiscent of that simulated swank
common to roadside inns.
But, I digress.
In both instances, the food was delicious, just what I'd
expect if I were dining in the downtown eateries. The only difference
was that El Charro's menu was somewhat abbreviated from the original.
El Charro's trademark is carne seca, and it's my yardstick
for judging the quality of the new restaurant.
The carne seca chimichanga (enchilada-style, of course) arrived
as enormous as ever and stuffed to capacity with spiced shredded
beef. It's great. The beef, although dried, was remarkably succulent,
seasoned with lime juice, garlic and green chiles.
Healthful options are one of El Charro's claims to fame, including
the surprisingly tasty Burro Fuerte--a flour tortilla stuffed
with whole pinto beans, rice, onions, tomatoes, peas and carrots
and served with a cup of yogurt on the side.
The almendrado was a disappointment, however--tough spongy layers
of egg whites without a lick of flavor and served with a vanilla
cream sauce and (huh?) chocolate.
El Minuto has several dishes I consider prime, but on this occasion
I opted for a combination plate showcasing the cheese enchilada,
chicken taco and refried beans. My companion gallantly offered
to try the other staple of my El Minuto visits, the chile rellenos.
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