The Bread & Butter And Coffee Pot Cafés Are A Couple Of Good Eggs.
By Rebecca Cook
BREAKFAST IS BIG business. Sure, we like our chimichangas
and our enchiladas and we absolutely cherish our host of four-star
eateries. But when the urge to dine out takes hold, nothing tops
the day's opening repast. Fortunately, we have a wide array of
choices in Tucson for deciding where to indulge a craving for
eggs over easy.
If you're having trouble finding a satisfactory breakfast locale,
run through this quick checklist:
- Is the parking lot mostly full? If there's a police car
or two in the mix, all the better.
- Is there a pervasive aroma of coffee and bacon, and at
least one table of six or more regular customers (identifiable
by their first-name-basis repartee with the waitresses)?
- Is there a pie case?
- Is there a wipe-clean specials board in sight?
- Can you spot a waitress with a name tag introducing the
wearer as Flo, Betty or Sal?
If you can answer "yes" to the majority of these questions,
take a seat. You've found the breakfast equivalent of the Promised
Land.
Both the Bread & Butter and the Coffee Pot cafés passed
our test with flying colors. If there's an emerging who's-who
on the local breakfast scene, these two deserve a place on the
register. Each manages to sustain the tradition of serving good,
old-fashioned food at reasonable prices, and each specializes
in fast and friendly service. Take your pick; you won't be disappointed.
The Bread & Butter Café, located in the El Grande
Shopping Center at 22nd Street and Columbus Boulevard, is a gem
of a joint. It operates at full-tilt boogie throughout most of
its working day, which begins at 5 a.m. Monday through Saturday.
If you've not yet enjoyed the cozy confines of the Bread &
Butter, it's high time you mosey on by.
Novelty is not the point here. People prefer their food uncomplicated
and tasty, and the Bread & Butter delivers on both counts.
Breakfast is basic: lots of eggs combined with bacon, ham, sausage
and toast, French toast, pancakes (including baby cakes, bacon,
blueberry, apple and banana) and a variety of omelets. Taunt the
fates with their big, fluffy biscuits smothered in sausage gravy,
or a large, gooey cinnamon roll. You'll also find down-home huevos
rancheros, and a Mexican platter served with a wicked chorizo
and scrambled egg mix. Daily specials are displayed on the requisite
dry-erase board behind the counter. These offer tempting alternatives
to the usual fare at bargain prices, and should not be overlooked.
While it's true you won't find anything audacious or surprising
on the Bread & Butter's menu, the little things (like the
use of fresh eggs) contribute to the overall impression of a delicious
and pleasing experience. To be honest, there's nothing on this
breakfast menu you couldn't make just as well at home. But isn't
that the point? Home cooking without ever turning on your stove
sounds like a pretty good deal to me.
Lunch is a hoot, especially if you like the notion of blue-plate
specials and vast mountains of mashed potatoes capped with golden
gravy.
You can opt for a burger or cold sandwich, but who in their right
mind would turn down meatloaf, liver and onions, chicken-fried
steak, pork chops or batter-fried cod? Each big dish is accompanied
by smashed spuds, a steamed vegetable and a white roll. It's impossible
to walk away hungry from a platter like that.
But the real story at the Bread & Butter is neither breakfast
nor lunch: It's the pies, with a capital P. These generous wedges
of pastry come in a dazzling array of daily specials, including
chocolate cream, rhubarb, peach cobbler, blackberry, coconut cream
and peanut butter cream. These are among the best money can buy:
The crust is flaky and golden, the fillings top-notch, and the
serving sizes suitably immense. If nothing else, you owe yourself
the treat of stopping by some day just for a cup of coffee and
a slice of this incredible pie. These are the kind of delicacies
that used to snag the blue ribbons at state fairs.
THE COFFEE POT Café, located on North Swan Road
near Speedway, has been around for most of the last two decades.
Legions of fans have made the tiny café a regular morning
destination. In fact, so many of the folks inside seem to know
each other, it's easy to think you're the only stranger in the
place. No need to worry, however: With only six booths and a handful
of counter stools, the Coffee Pot is an intimate space, perfect
for encouraging the kind of friendly intermingling that leads
to rampant familiarity.
Like the Bread & Butter, there's nothing radical going on
with the morning meal at the Coffee Pot. Nonetheless, it's refreshing
to enter a place where the notion of nouvelle is completely nonexistent.
Solid, home-style cooking is the order of the day, making any
dish the café serves a satisfying indulgence. Egg dishes
are featured prominently here, and in addition to their more familiar
preparations, they can also be accompanied by a gravy-topped slice
of chicken-fried steak, stuffed inside a breakfast burro, sandwiched,
or scrambled masterfully with a garden variety of vegetables.
Pancakes, French toast, and biscuits and gravy show up here as
well, along with a few burger and sandwich offerings for the lunchtime
crowd. Daily specials are always featured (and rotated) on a board
at the end of the counter.
The food at the Coffee Pot is roundly delicious, with nary a
faltering step. Toasted slices of homemade bread (wheat or white)
and home fries are both tasty additions to almost every platter.
They elevate the fare far beyond the strictly commercial.
Regrettably, the Coffee Pot has not branched out into the fresh
pastries or sweet breads.
So, keep the faith and make plans to enjoy a morning meal at
either the Bread & Butter or the Coffee Pot cafés.
It won't set you back much, and will assuredly get your day off
to a grand start. And don't forget the pie! Good grief, what are
you waiting for?
Bread & Butter Café. 4209 E. 22nd St. 327-0004.
Open 5 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 1 p.m.
Sunday. No liquor. Cash or checks. Menu items: $.95-$6.95.
The Coffee Pot Café. 1070 N. Swan Road. 881-9178.
Open 6:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, 6:30 to 11:30
a.m. on Saturday. Closed Sundays. No liquor. Cash or checks. Menu
items: $1.25-$5.95.
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