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Vivande Looms Large In The Shadow Of Gavi.
By Rebecca Cook
WHEN YOU OPEN a new Italian restaurant right next to one
of this town's most popular ristorantes, you'd better steel
yourself for the inevitable comparisons. But, also, considering
the venerable veteran has customers literally tumbling out the
front door on weekend nights, you know you can at least count
on catching some of the impatient overflow.
But here's the million-dollar question: Having once dined at
your establishment, will these unexpected diners come back,
or will they opt instead for the place constantly in demand next
door?
Look out Gavi--Vivande, the new kid on the block at Broadway
and Pantano, seems to be holding its own among the pasta-loving
souls of Tucson's east side. The novice's task is hardly envious:
match up admirably against one of the best, or risk disappearing
into the sunset. So, how's it going?
To start, Vivande has to convince people they really are open
for business. Don't be put off by the chain-link fencing and boarding
along one side of the new restaurant (perhaps the site of a future
patio?). The main entrance is actually off Pantano Road, rather
than looking out towards Broadway like all the other strip-mall
establishments.
Once inside, the space reveals impressive, clean, graceful interior
lines, classic black-and-white design and soft lighting, giving
the room a comfy, warm feel. The crooning tenor of an Italian
vocalist fills the room, the staff is welcoming and accommodating,
and wonderful aromas emanate from the kitchen. Yes indeedy, this
will definitely do.
Vivande's menu contains nothing surprising or unfamiliar; rather,
the order of the day is a comprehensive listing of every imaginable
Italian favorite. Here you'll find spaghetti, rigatoni and penne
served with a kaleidoscope of mouth-watering sauces (marinara
with or without meatballs or mushrooms, meat, garlic butter, Italian
sausage or carbonara); fettuccine with ham, broccoli and Alfredo
sauce; linguine with red or white clam sauce; and ravioli, tortellini,
lasagna, cannelloni, manicotti, stuffed shells and eggplant parmigiana.
Chicken and veal come in a variety of preparations, including
marsala, piccata, parmigiana, Florentine and cacciatore and shrimp,
mussels and calamari make appearances sauced in marinara and scampi
butter. And to top it all off, there's pizza. Working your way
through the menu and making a decision about what to order is
no small task.
Appetizers (antipasti in the lingo of the trade) could be breaded
mozzarella cheese sticks served with marinara sauce, a platter
of fried calamari or a bowl of steamed mussels or clams. We chose
to nibble on an order of Vivande's bruschetta, thinking that a
few discreet slices of bread topped with olive oil and tomatoes
wouldn't destroy our appetites for bigger and better things.
What appeared to be a modest eight- or nine-inch pizza serving
of bread was brought to our table, toasted, drizzled with olive
oil and thoroughly rubbed with fresh garlic, then additionally
topped with a formidable crown of coarsely chopped fresh tomatoes
and basil. With a fork and a glass of Chianti, this dish would
easily comprise a complete meal for the humble diner; but we partook
of this marvelous dish with restraint due to the forthcoming entrées
(served with soup or salad).
What we sampled was quite delicious: The pervasive garlic crunch
and gentle brushing of olive oil were heavenly, and the tomatoes
and basil consummately fresh, although the tomatoes could have
benefited from an extra day or two to ripen.
The house salad, which we chose over a tempting cup of pasta
fagioli soup, was probably the weakest link in our meal. The predominant
green in the mix was iceberg, although there were a few leaves
of green and red thrown in for added intrigue alongside a wedge
of tomato, sliced red onion, cucumber and a pepperoncini. The
house Italian vinaigrette was so acidic it bordered on inedible;
it escaped by a narrow margin due to an infusion of oregano, thyme
and basil. Next time, we'll go with the soup.
Any notion of disappointment was soon dispelled, however, when
platters of sizzling and aromatic food were set before us. Eggplant
parmigiana served with pasta, and an order of veal Florentine
topped our agenda that evening, along with a simple cheese pizza
hot from the oven.
So many things can go wrong with the simplest of dishes. For
example, eggplant parmigiana has the potential for unmitigated
disaster, beginning with a vegetable overcooked to putrid pulp
and often concluding with a coating so heavy and greasy it makes
you wonder why you ever gave up meat. Vivande evades all these
pitfalls and presents tender (never mushy) slices of eggplant,
lightly and crisply breaded (never oily), topped with a modest
portion of spicy marinara sauce and a generous grating of mozzarella.
For once, the purple veggie held court rather than being smothered
by oceans of sauce or entombed within a thick, fried casing. Vivande
trusts that if you ordered eggplant parmigiana, you won't mind
tasting the primary ingredient.
The restaurant's marinara probably won't be to everyone's liking,
but it's undeniably enticing. Its singular blend of flavors seems
to change slightly with each bite, making the process of identifying
the various ingredients a challenging game. Was that a hint celery
seed right there? A little rosemary perhaps? Freshly ground cloves?
The veal Florentine, a breaded veal cutlet topped with chopped
spinach, melted kasseri cheese and a whisper of white wine sauce,
was tasty enough, although I found the hefty breading unappealing
and vaguely distracting. The meat was moist and tender, the cheese
nicely tangy and the spinach devoid of sinewy strands. Still,
it didn't quite add up to greatness, which I count on to help
alleviate those pangs of veal guilt.
The cheese pizza was unabashedly a kid-pleaser: yeasty, puffy
crust topped with a modicum of red sauce and mounds of melted
and browned mozzarella cheese. Specialty toppings of shrimp, Canadian
bacon, anchovies, meatballs, gyro meat, sun-dried tomatoes, feta
cheese and artichokes can be added as well as more familiar items
such as pepperoni and mushrooms.
If the kids want to branch out and try something other than pizza,
Vivande has a brief bambini menu, which gives children
under 12 a choice of spaghetti, rigatoni or penne ziti served
with marinara, meat sauce, garlic butter or Alfredo sauce, or
meat or cheese ravioli. Meatballs or Italian sausage can be added
to any of these dishes. Just like the adults, youngsters are also
given a choice of soup or salad. At $5.50, this is a great family
deal.
Desserts tend toward chocolate decadence, but since, according
to our waiter, these particular concoctions were made off site
at a local bakery, we chose one dark dolci and one order of the
tiramisu, which was proudly made in Vivande's own kitchen.
A dense chocolate fudge cake tasted about like you'd expect from
a good bakery torte--moist, sweet and delicious. It was the tiramisu,
however, that proved worth the price of admission. A large square
of layered espresso-and-rum-soaked ladyfingers, sweetened mascarpone
cheese and whipped cream topped with a drizzle of chocolate sauce
was a stupendous finale to the meal. We intended to take only
a few bites and leave the rest on the plate, but it was simply
too delectable. Before we knew it, we'd whittled away the piece
to a mere sliver. A cup of coffee, settle the tab and roll me
on out the door.
Vivande gets two thumbs up. I can't say I'd give up eating at
Gavi, but I'll tell you what: If it looked like I'd be waiting
for a table well into the next century, I wouldn't hesitate to
wander on back to Vivande. When the alternative is this good,
you can't go wrong.
Vivande. 7895 E. Broadway. 298-3700. Open from
11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Beer and wine. V, MC, DISC, AMEX.
Menu items: $3.75-$15.95.
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