Andaloro's And Tony's--Both Great Places To Take The Family. By Rebecca Cook STRANGE AS IT seems these days, I remember a time when eating restaurant food seemed a rare and exotic thing. Aside from the occasional bag of hamburgers purchased from the corner A & W Drive-In (Remember burgers for the whole family--Papa Burger, Mama Burger, Teen Burger and Baby Burger?) and an infrequent stop for pancakes on Sunday mornings after church, we dined at home. Well, times have changed. If the results were tallied, my children's restaurant-food exposure might come dangerously close to the number of home-cooked meals they've eaten in their short lives. In a world where free time is at a minimum, the value of restaurants and take-out food has skyrocketed. What a joy, then, to discover places that serve relatively simple and delicious fare, meet with the approval of everyone in the family, and don't break the bank. Two establishments worthy of consideration are Andaloro's and Tony's New York-Style Italian Deli. Andaloro's, located in the Campbell Fair Shopping Center at Campbell Avenue and Fort Lowell Road, is the new kid on the block. An Italian/Greek deli and café, Andaloro's impresses on many levels, not the least of which is the charm of its spanking-clean space complete with glass counters showcasing tempting foods, shiny black-and-white checkerboard tile floors and a kitchen gallery where you can observe your order being carefully prepared. But what really thrills here is food as delicious as the surroundings. I've found a home away from home at Andaloro's. Sandwiches are first-rate here, with a fine selection of deli favorites. A special combination of prosciutto, salami, capo, ham and cheese ($6.50) is a meat-lover's delight, a sandwich loaded to proportions that make your jaw unhinge as you open wide to devour. Hot Italian grinders range from the messy-but-worthwhile meatballs with cheese to sausage and peppers or a parmigiana of eggplant or chicken (all for $4.95). Because Andaloro's doubles as a Greek deli, one can also partake of a gyro ($4.95), a delectable combination of thinly sliced and tender lamb, fresh tomato, lettuce and raw onion served atop a fluffy slice of pita bread and drizzled with a yogurt-dill sauce. All items are prepared fresh on the premises at Andaloro's, and nowhere is this more evident than in their breads. Whether it's your sandwich, gyro, pizza or calzone, the fresh, yeasty quality of the breadstuff infuses everything with a satisfying, homemade flavor. The calzones are a small wonder. Far from being soggy pockets of pastry stuffed with leaden cheese and pepperoni, Andaloro's calzones exemplify a culinary art form, the preparation of which takes a little extra time but is well worth the wait. Nearly the size of a football, these calzones are light and flaky, with a dizzying combination of cheeses, meats and vegetables pocketed within. The spinach and cheese variation ($6.50) is a marvel of fresh, chopped spinach, a generous blend of ricotta and mozzarella and thin layer of tangy-sweet tomato sauce. Additional marinara sauce, served on the side, completed a perfect blend of textures and flavors. Gourmet stone-oven pizzas ($10 to $13), as well as several hot Italian entrees, such as spaghetti, ravioli and non-fat lasagna (all priced at $5.95), can also be ordered at Andaloro's and make perfect take-home meals for your family when you're on the run. Tony's New York Style Deli, Butcher Shop & Restaurant is not nearly as spiffy as the more upscale Andaloro's, but it has the feel of the Big Apple's Little Italy and serves up good food to match. Proprietors Mark and Lori Paolini make you feel right at home and encourage you to snuggle into one of the closely-packed tables in front of the deli counter and refrigerator cases. Tony's is the kind of place where the waitress calls you "hon" and you feel thoroughly cared for, a feeling reinforced when the homestyle food is served. Sandwiches and heros are made with half a loaf of fresh Italian bread and stuffed with a mountain of meat, cheese and vegetables. I was somewhat incredulous that Tony's special ($4.95) came loaded with nearly two inches of Genoa salami and another quarter-inch of cheese, all of which I ate. Tony's also features various hot Italian entrees, including not only the expected pasta dishes but also a shrimp scampi or lobster tail for $6.99. I didn't try either of these, but if the portions here are as generous as everything else, this is a ganga deal. One could opt for a pesto pizza

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