The River Road Brewery Is An Outstanding New Restaurant.
By Rebecca Cook
WITH THE EXCEPTION of some outstanding-tasting beers, almost
nothing at the River Road Brewery jibes with what you've been
led to expect.
The building where the brewery is housed is sleek, modern, elegant.
In the midst of this grandeur on the main floor are the large,
stainless-steel vats in which the beer is brewed, and often you'll
see someone preparing the latest batch. Cloth sacks of grain can
be glimpsed in their storage space just under the elevator, and
floor-to-ceiling fermenting tanks stand encased in glass against
the east wall of the second-floor dining room loft.
This is a real working brewery.
It also happens to be one of the best new restaurants to open
in Tucson in quite some time, with a menu that far exceeded my
modest pub-like expectations.
Thanks to the talents of Executive Chef Marianne Banes and the
vision of owner Tom Jones, the River Road Brewery offers Tucsonans
the opportunity to sample beer with character while you're nibbling
on carpaccio of rare beef, fresh cavatelli with smoked duck, or
grilled cabrilla with poblano avocado cream and three-tomato relish.
Not that Banes and Jones haven't given a nod in their menu to
the more traditional pub fare. You'll still find fish and chips,
burgers and bratwurst; but for those individuals as interested
in cuisine as barley, there's plenty else to choose from.
Appetizers may be as far as you get with the menu if you're more
interested in the River Road's brew, but that's an excellent place
to start and could well entice you to stay through dinner.
An order of steamed clams ($6.95) served in an intoxicating broth
of blonde ale, garlic, parsley, lemon and butter arrived at our
table still bubbling. At least a dozen clams peeked out at us
from their shells and we had no trouble polishing them off in
a matter of seconds. They may have been a little more chewy than
the ultra-fresh ones you get on the Pacific Coast, but they were
nevertheless delicious.
Another occasion began with an order of the pepper jack
cheese straws ($5.95), which were served in a small goblet and
pre-dunked in a lemon cashew sauce. Rolled, flaky pastry pirouettes--accented
with red and green chile peppers and dusted with caraway seed,
were unusual companions to the tangy, smooth nut-butter--but,
somehow, the combination worked. Our only complaint was that we
thought three "straws" too skimpy a portion and would
have like to have had a few more.
Soups, salads and sandwiches are represented on the menu,
some in forms you can readily recognize and others a slight surprise.
I had the avocado, mango and rocket salad ($7.95), containing
grilled shrimp, mixed greens and sliced, marinated red onion with
a roast garlic-lime vinaigrette and a cilantro mayonnaise. The
fruity blend of mango, avocado, onion, cilantro and lime was a
refreshing splash of sweet and sour.
The portabello sandwich with mozzarella ($6.95) was broiled and
served open-faced with tomato, roasted red pepper and spinach-walnut
pesto. Despite its appetizing ingredients, this sandwich disappointingly
leaned to the bland side. Not even side-servings of large-cut
french fries and jicama slaw added the needed zip.
Offerings are expanded at dinner to include more meat and fish
dishes, many elaborately prepared and painstakingly presented.
We sampled the daily fish special ($16.95), which was a grilled
halibut served with fresh and wild mushrooms, red chile-pepper
broth, steamed mussels, tomatoes and onions. The fish, which was
served in a large bouillabaisse-style bowl, was fresh and flaky
and the broth fragrant with tomato, onion, chile and a slight
smoky taste.
I tried the herb-crusted half chicken ($12.95), which was coated
in a bread crumb-herb mixture and roasted until crisp-tender.
I'm a sucker for chicken cooked in a homespun style, and the subtle
influence of the thyme-scented coating and the moist quality of
the meat won me over completely. Served with cheddar mashed potatoes
and a sautéed vegetable melange of squash, peppers and
onions, this was first-class comfort food.
You must leave room for dessert when dining at the River Road
Brewery, but you and your guest can easily share one order without
going away hungry; the portions here are enormous.
Pastry chef Jane McChesney, formerly of Milagro, has created
some sweet-tasting masterpieces, including a chocolate mocha espresso
cake (dense layers of chocolate cake with a lighter mocha filling
and the whole iced in a bittersweet chocolate glaze, $5) and a
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