Despite Some Problems With Noise And Service, Presidio Grill Is Still A Top Local Eatery.
By Rebecca Cook
IT'S BEEN 10 years since Presidio Grill first opened its
doors for business, bringing to Tucson at that time a hitherto
unseen combination of slick urban ambience and a sassy new menu
that incorporated many of the ingredients and flavors characteristic
of Southwest cuisine.
With the distinction of being Tucson's first upscale "grill,"
Presidio led the way to a veritable back burner invasion. Think
about it for a few minutes. Newly opened or revamped since 1988
are Metropolitan Grill, Catalina Grill, Buddy's Grill, City Grill,
Barrio Grill, Flying V Bar & Grill, Cushing Street Bar &
Grill, Fuego Restaurant Bar & Grill, Keaton's Restaurant Grill
& Bar and Kingfisher Bar & Grill.
And this incomplete list doesn't even include the countless
restaurants that borrowed liberally from the "grill"
concept but opted to omit the G-word from their official title.
Given all this upstart competition in the last few years, how
is Presidio Grill faring? Is the restaurant holding steady at
the top of its art form? Or has it instead fallen behind the times,
surpassed by some of the more recent additions to the local grill
scene?
The hiring of a new executive chef, Jeffrey T. Barker, provided
the perfect excuse to get nosy and check out how things stand
at the Presidio these days.
The space itself has changed little over the past decade. Some
cosmetic work to jazz up the building's façade, as well
as the addition of a side dining area, are the only detectable
physical alterations. The long, narrow dining room, which conveniently
parallels the bar, still has enormous eye appeal, thanks in large
part to the contrast of those heavy black vinyl booths and white
walls and tile floors.
With different kitchen staff and a continued spirit of ingenuity,
the menu has been altered subtly over the years. While many of
the original dishes have gone the way of the albatross, a few
signature Presidio offerings can still be found.
Most notably, this includes a scrumptious appetizer of halved
and roasted garlic bulbs, served with a wedge of ripe brie, a
colorful red, green and yellow bell-pepper melange, and plenty
of buttery crostini. Time has done nothing to diminish the pleasure
of mellow, spreadable garlic and tangy brie atop a crunchy, buttery
wedge of crostini. A taste sensation.
Lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch are served at Presidio Grill.
We stuck to dinner, perhaps the most representative meal in showing
off what the restaurant does best--as well as worst.
From its inception, Presidio's boasted a popular supper club
scene. The small front dining room percolates with noise and activity,
which can enhance as well as detract from the dining experience.
Done right, it's an atmosphere conducive to controlled revelry,
an ambience of gaiety and charm.
The brisk pace and commotion has now turned into something of
a frenzy, however, fueled in part by what appears to be gross
understaffing.
Seated in that side dining room, we witnessed the futile efforts
of a single waitress trying to diligently attend to no fewer than
eight tables at one time. We waited for menus, we waited for drinks,
we waited to order, we waited to be served, we waited for the
plates to be cleared for dessert. And we waited an eternity to
pay the bill.
To her credit, our waitress comported herself admirably under
these trying circumstances. But with a minimum of support staff,
she could do only so much.
In addition, the noise in this adjoining dining room was not
just busy, it was cacophonous. Never the ideal place for an intimate
conversation, the Presidio now rivals the crowd at McHale Center
when UCLA comes to town. For a restaurant of quality, this kind
of din is ludicrous.
The good news is that the food at Presidio, once you finally
get it, is really quite good, if not a bit confusing at times
in composition and presentation.
Barker's revised American grill menu infuses many Southwestern
and European touches with a dollop of the Louisiana bayou.
A chicken pasta dish was delicious, composed of linguine, tender
grilled chicken, roasted poblano chiles,
browned garlic, Roma tomatoes, fresh basil and prosciutto. Savory
and satisfying in all respects, with just the right of amount
of chile heat thrown in, this was a glorious dish.
Also enjoyable was the manicotti stuffed with pureed eggplant,
spinach and ricotta cheese, capped with a dab of roasted tomato
and cilantro marinara. Although tasty, this dish suffered slightly
from an unremitting case of the blands. The marinara sauce failed
to provided some contrasting flavor pizzazz to these creamy-flavored
pasta tubes.
A blackened prime rib cut, however, went to the other end of
the spectrum and was extremely spicy. Served alongside a mountain
of mashed potatoes, smoked onions and the whole crowned with a
full ear of corn on the cob, this was most definitely a hungry
man's platter. The generous portion of beef was juicy and tender,
but the potatoes seemed to need something (au jus perhaps?);
and, I must say, the sight of an ear of corn plopped into the
middle of the plate struck me as slightly odd. I might expect
this kind of thing at some casual barbecue joint, but it was a
surprising sight to see while making the trendy grill scene.
The award for most confounding entrée that night, however,
went to the seared chicken breast served over horseradish mashed
potatoes and topped with a thick tequila cream sauce peppered
with chunks of pear, leeks, prosciutto ham and figs. For the
most part, the dish was very pleasing. It's appearance, though,
was a complete mess. Our interest was further heightened by the
unexpected appearance of a small leg attached to what we assumed
was only breast meat. A peek under the camouflaging sauce revealed
not a simple chicken breast but a fowl that bore a striking resemblance
to a halved game hen or squab. Curioser and curioser.
Dessert consisted of a silky caramel and bittersweet chocolate
custard and a gargantuan wedge of New York-style cheesecake topped
with a full regiment of fresh raspberries. Both were superb.
Presidio may have led the way on the grill scene 10 years ago,
but it appears that now it's time to play a little game of catch-up.
The food quality is still quite good, but the concepts of ambience
and service seem to have been tossed aside. What a shame. Don't
they know that some things never go out of style?
Presido Grill. 3352 E. Speedway. 327-4667. Open
Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday
11 a.m. to midnight and Sunday 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Full bar. V,
MC, AMEX, DISC, CH. Menu items: $3.95-$19.95.
|