READERS' PICK: Produce at Reay's makes the grade, with everything from arugula and chervil to Driscoll strawberries, forest mushrooms, plantains and seasonal persimmons, pomegranates, tomatoes-on-the-vine, wax beans and watermelon, and, and, and--on and on, all the way to zucchini. But even within a category--say onions--they offer yellow, small white, large white, pearl, red, green, leeks, chives and so on. There are genres and sub-genres of organic pleasures you didn't even know existed. Additionally, about a full third of Reay's produce section is certified organic. Everything is fresh: Leafy produce is frequently irrigated, and even the most tender summer fruits appear to be monitored for molds and imperfections.

READERS' POLL RUNNER-UP: 17th St. Farmers' Market, 840 E. 17th St.

1998 Winner: Reay's Ranch Market 1996 Winner: Reay's Ranch Market 1995 Winner: Reay's Ranch Market

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