Best Butcher Shop
Reay's Markets
Three (soon-to-be four) locations
READERS' AND STAFF PICK: For some, there is no politically correct
meat to eat. But for others of us, we simply want to know that
the critters we're about to devour weren't crowded, beaten or
otherwise terrorized before they made it to our tables. Call it
carnivorian rationalization, but we like the idea of range-fed
chickens (the hens get to roam around a big area and don't have
to be exposed to pesticides, antibiotics, hormone flooding and
other icky stuff). The confidence we see at the meat counter at
Reay's resembles the hometown butchers' pride some of us
oldtimers remember from the Midwest. But where it was mostly red
meat at those shops of yesteryear, at Reay's you'll see a lot
more fresh fish, shellfish, poultry, even live lobsters. The meat-cutters
see their work, at least outwardly, as art and their pride shows
in the presentation and explanation. We don't really want to think
too hard about this stuff; it's their job, so let them do the
figuring. All you need to do is give 'em a ring, tell 'em you're
expecting 15 adults and four children for holiday brisket, can
they have your meat ready when you get there. They'll not only
wrap it up, they'll offer you cooking tips and sincerely wish
you enjoyment as they hand the package across the case. Reay's
opened a new store in March, at 7025 E. Tanque Verde Road. And
a fourth local store is scheduled to open October 11, at 7133
N. Oracle Road.
READERS' POLL RUNNER-UP: Dreher's Quality Meats & Sausage,
7340 E. Broadway.
CAT'S MEOW: Ready to fling the Exercycle out the window and flee
shrieking from the "Healthy Choice" aisle of your supermarket?
Stop at Sambo's Meat Market en route, they of the blessedly
un-PC name and equally fashion-defying inventory. This is the
stuff the Food Police won't let you have anymore. Part-butcher
shop, part-independent market stocking beer, sodas, tortillas,
fresh chiles and snacks, places like this are a vanishing element
on the urban landscape. Unlike the modern supermarket with Muzak
and hanging plants, Sambo's looks, feels and smells like some
collective-memory meta-market, a place from our past transported
to 610 N. Grande Ave. They also sell hominy for posole or menudo,
masa and corn husks for tamales, 5-pound tubs of lard, and the
best hot chorizo in town.
