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Best Trans-Continental Flight Of Fancy
San Remo Italian Dining
STAFF PICK: Many of us remember when the restaurant San
Remo was synonymous with Pacific Rim cuisine splashed with
a bit of Mediterranean flavor. But last January, the place turned
strictly Italian. The interior of the small converted house (located
just off East Tanque Verde Road) looks like it was lifted straight
from the pages of a 1960s magazine feature on fine dining. The
decor strikes you at first as a bit "clubby,"
but it doesn't take long before the congenial staff and the intoxicating
aromas wafting from the kitchen dispel any apprehension. Don't
let the retro formality of San Remo distract from what's really
critical: the top-notch quality of the food. It's worth every
bite, even if you have to depart from your usual jeans and T-shirt
attire for the evening. The pungent marinara--thick with freshly
pureed tomatoes and garlic, with a zesty kick--alone inspires
rave reviews. Loads of seafood entrees represent some of the best
of Southern Italian cuisine; and the veal marsala is unparalleled,
on par with our finest experiences in those marvelous Little Italy
eateries in New York and Jersey. Scampi, clams, and the most enormous
and succulent mussels glimpsed in these parts also tempt the appetite
in myriad preparations, from appetizers on the half-shell to a
generous portion of pasta with that awesome marinara sauce. Whether
you're looking for a new restaurant for a special occasion or
just want to satisfy an intense craving for pasta, San Remo is
one of our favorites. It's cheaper than a cross-Atlantic flight
and nearly as good.
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