Best of Tucson 1996: Best Chile Relleno

Best Chile Relleno

Mi Nidito
1813 S. Fourth Ave.

READERS' PICK: Simple perfection was never more profoundly executed. Fresh chiles are roasted, peeled, stuffed with cheese, dipped in egg batter and fried. Served two to an order--along with beans and rice--the rellenos are only slightly spicy and are never drowned in any kind of sauce, so the full taste of the chile can be savored. Mi Nidito's chile rellenos are one reason many of us will never be able to tear ourselves away from this dusty desert town. Vitamin C never tasted so good. See the extended pick on page 51 for more.

READERS' POLL RUNNER-UP: You can count on La Indita at 622 N. Fourth Ave. to whip up a saucy chile relleno prepared with cariño--and a minimum of artery-clogging grease. They extract the unfortunate pulp God gave the chile and stuff it with something better: cheese, cheese and more cheese, of the authentic Mexican persuasion! Also near and dear to our hearts, La Indita's egg-battered and fried rellenos are lard-free. So go ahead and order one for each hand. Friday's chile relleno special includes two chiles with rice and refried beans on the side. These savory stuffed chiles and a cool breeze on the back patio are an ideal way to smooth out the wrinkles of a rough week.

STAFF PICK: A good relleno should stick in your mind a little while, so that the next day you can still remember it fondly and smile. El Saguarito's, 7216 N. Oracle Road, are some of the finest in the area, a palm-sized Anaheim chile rolled in bread crumbs and smothered in golden melted cheddar. A good relleno is crisp and tender, juicy without being soggy. El Saguarito manages this difficult contrast well, at the same time letting the chile's own flavor burst forth. You'll have an inexplicable grin on your face for days after.