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 Jack Green Has Carved A Tasty Slice Of Urbanity Out Of A Humble Corner Storefront By Rebecca Cook THERE ARE THOSE who argue the café epitomizes the pinnacle of Western civilization. The ambiance therein--an invigorating blend of languorous contemplation, stimulating conversation and, of course, expertly drawn espresso--marks the pulse of creative consciousness; it's no accident that writers, artists and other aesthetic types gravitate toward the place where their mutual needs for caffeine and camaraderie are deftly met. Even first-time visitors can't help but feel the allure of such a setting.
Propitiously located at the center of our city's fashionable counter-culture, Epic is one of the "in" places to be on any given day. Recent modifications to the interior decor--including comfy leather couches, funky metallic light fixtures, a new exhibit of large-scale acrylic canvases by Kevin Johnson, and a re-scaled bar counter to open up the limited seating--all are evidence the ambitious little café continues to stay ahead of the curve. Primarily known for its hearty and healthful soups, salads and sandwiches, Epic is fixed in most people's minds as a fine place to meet for a midday meal. Recently, however, Green has experimented with an evening concept--an idea that's been slow to catch fire in spite of the additional dessert offerings, soft live music, and tableside service after 5 p.m. Hopefully, this oversight will soon be remedied as word gets out. The changes at Epic aren't the only buzz in the air, though. While some northern types might argue the point, fall is indisputably around the bend. And to mark this passing of the seasons, Epic is once again offering its signature cranberry couscous, a fluffy warm repast especially well-suited to chilly mornings.
A daily variety of fresh-baked scones offer another avenue of innovation. These are especially wonderful when accompanied by one of Epic's outstanding coffee drinks. The amazing scone repertoire changes daily and dazzles with selections ranging from mocha espresso walnut and butterscotch pecan, to lemon poppy seed almond and (Green's avowed favorite), cranberry white chocolate. They also feature a few vegan varieties. Moist and dense, with the consistency of a fine buttermilk biscuit, Epic's scones are ideal to coax forth your first hours of consciousness or highlight a refined afternoon tea. Lunch here features a fixed menu of sandwiches, salads and individual pita bread pizzas alongside a chalkboard of daily specials. A fine choice of greens is the Greek salad, torn leaves of snappy romaine lettuce, chopped tomatoes, sliced kalamata olives and crumbled feta cheese coated with an oregano-infused dressing of balsamic vinegar and olive oil. Their spanakopita, a flaky spinach turnover, made a tasty and quick lunch one day, well-complemented by a cup of the soup du jour, a vegetarian tortilla variety made with red potatoes, blue corn chips, onion, tomato and lots of piquant chile verde. Without a doubt, though, it's Epic's sandwiches that keep people coming back for more. Thick, moist slices of focaccia, gently seasoned with rosemary or a dusting of grated cheese, frame fillings of incredible freshness and extraordinary taste. (Where Green finds such ripe and flavorful tomatoes remains a mystery.) One favorite in this genre is the vegetable sandwich, made with a subtly smoky havarti cheese, sliced tomato, lettuce, slices of red onion and, sometimes, a slice or two of ripe avocado or a sprig of fresh basil. With a modest smear of mayonnaise and mustard on the savory focaccia, this sandwich is sublime. A close second is the tomato, mozzarella and basil, which is every bit as tasty and loaded with those to-die-for, vine-ripened Romas. Try one of their pasta salads for dinner: Standouts are the standard pesto, a garlicky concoction of mostaccoli, basil and sun-dried tomatoes; or the exotic Moroccan salad (also featuring mostaccoli), a tantalizing blend of asparagus, red onion and black olives tossed with nutmeg and cinnamon in a balsamic vinaigrette. For dessert, fruit pies, cakes, fudgy walnut brownies and cookies reign supreme. If you're a fan of the peanut-butter cookie, look no further than Epic for the ultimate experience. Another café specialty nearest our hearts is the tiramisu. It hasn't appeared of late, giving us yet another reason to keep close watch. So dress casual, get out your journal, and head on down to Epic. The food is simple, excellent and fairly inexpensive, the atmosphere scholarly but down-to-earth, and the coffee a genuine sipping pleasure. Finally, this charming corner has fallen into the right hands.
Epic Café. 745 N. Fourth Ave. 624-6844.
Open 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Sunday and Monday. No alcohol served. Check, cash. Menu items:
$1.75 to $7.95.
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In Tucson, there's no finer example of café society than
Epic Café. Humble and unpretentious in every respect, co-owners
Jack Green and Lorraine Glicksman have transformed this once-revolving
storefront on the corner of Fourth Avenue and University Boulevard
(its litany of failed incarnations includes a hair salon, bike
shop, record store, and second-hand clothing shop) into an amiable
hub of artistic and culinary merit. Not surprisingly, the café
has built a loyal early-morning and mid-afternoon following over
the last three years. Depending on the time of day, Epic plays
host to a bustling mix of cyclists, students and suburbanites,
or a more subdued lot of bookworms, writers and sidewalk philosophers.
The combination of sweet rice milk, simple grain, fragrant cinnamon,
slivered almonds and tart fruit, a complementary pairing of chewy
and crunchy, is a singular pleasure. Even if you've never been
a hot cereal fan, I recommend you give this dish a try. Warning:
Even one bowl can become habit-forming, as evidenced by the subsequent
rearranging of my morning schedule to include time for breakfast
at Epic.
