You Can Still Count On Le Bistro For Innovative, Old World Charm
By Rebecca Cook
IN THE BUSTLING dining metropolis Tucson's become in recent years,
attention tends to focus on whatever new restaurant opens its
doors for business.
Naturally, we're interested in the latest bistro to hit the local
scene. Occasionally, though, it's a fine thing to check out a
place that's been around for years, to see how it's weathered
the test of time.
I remembered Le Bistro fondly, as a restaurant that consistently
served innovative yet solid French cuisine along with decadent
desserts that were just the thing for elegant, after-theater nibbling.
The interior, at least, remains pretty much unchanged. The bright
light and garden sunroom ambiance are as delightful as ever. The
only noticeable difference from previous visits is that the dense
foliage along the side booths of the dining room has grown substantially,
making the al fresco surroundings either more lush or more oppressive,
depending on your point of view.
Although Le Bistro has a regular menu from which to order, the
board of daily specials is the way to go. These are invariably
so tempting that only the stalwart go on to the core text before
making a selection.
A generous lunch special of pasta salad made with sun-dried tomato
fettuccine, artichoke hearts, capers, carrots and tender, thinly
sliced cured salmon was cool and refreshing, delicately enhanced
by a light coating of tarragon vinaigrette. For those who've abandoned
the ubiquitous pasta salad for becoming boring or predictable,
this one may win you over with its flavorful originality. Accompanied
by a basket of warm, yeasty French bread (absolutely divine with
a thin veneer of butter), this was a lunch fit for royalty.
A warm angel hair pasta tossed with fresh bay scallops proved
equally delicious. This entree's petite serving suited the richness
of the scallops and the creamy, pungent goat cheese. Fresh green
chilies contributed a pleasing, tangy contrast to these large,
tender fruits de mer and the assertive character
of the goat cheese.
Dessert is a matter of principle here. A prominent, cylindrical
pastry case, filled top to bottom with all manner of confectionery
indulgence, grabs your attention the minute you walk through Le
Bistro's doors. If you didn't arrive with the intention of ordering
dessert first, you might find your judgment swayed by this hypnotic,
rotating display as you wait to be seated.
Le Bistro's tuxedo cake, made with a combination of white and
dark chocolate, has moved into the realm of legend over the years.
The dense, fudgy cake is pure heaven for chocolate connoisseurs.
Along with a steaming cup of coffee, this treat will provide enough
stimulation to keep you going for several hours. A mocha amaretto
torte is less successful--a cloying sweetness eclipses the pastry's
signature flavor.
Dimmed lights and an air of elegance accentuate the dinner experience
at Le Bistro. Appropriately, the staff is more formal and the
pace more relaxed, affording diners the luxury of settling in
for an evening of pampered pleasure.
In a homey departure from haute cuisine, an appetizer of rolled
tortilla with a piquant salsa-infused cream cheese is set before
us as we contemplate the menu. Chef Laurent Reuxs' genius in crafting
both the extensive regular menu and the nightly specials makes
ordering difficult.
Finally, we settle on a pepper filet from the standard menu,
and a horseradish-crusted halibut. Both dishes were superb: the
tender beef filet cooked to medium-rare perfection, and subtly
laced with a nip of black pepper, with a green peppercorn sauce
drizzled over the whole. A sautéed vegetable melange of
squash and peppers, and a lovely rendering of scalloped potatoes,
beautifully complement both entrées.
Dessert this evening focused on a custard fruit tart and the
Concorde, a miraculous concoction of chocolate mousse studded
with fingers of chocolate meringue. The tart was satisfactory,
but the Concorde's divine. Le Bistro definitely knows how to do
chocolate.
Conclusion: Le Bistro continues to offer the same wonderful food
and enjoyable ambiance we've come to expect. What a relief to
find that in the midst of change, some of the finer things stay
the same.
Le Bistro. 2574 N. Campbell Ave. 327-3086. Open
11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, with dinner served
daily beginning at 5 p.m. Full bar. V, MC, AMEX, DR, checks.
Lunch items: $2.25-$10.95; dinner $3.50-$17.95.
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