The Royal Kabob Makes Desert Living Seem Pleasurable Indeed
By Rebecca Cook
IT ISN'T MERE social custom that decrees the code of the
desert is a generous and gracious hospitality. In the old days,
people often had to depend, quite literally, upon the "kindness
of strangers," individuals who would share their own meager
supplies so that someone else might survive a cruel and unforgiving
environment.
Whether the person you broke bread with was friend or foe didn't
much matter. Karmic logic decreed that, sooner or later, you'd
also need help, and so you gave willingly.
Much of this rich and hospitable tradition continues today in
several restaurants specializing in Middle Eastern cuisine, where
you quite often get the feeling you're an honored guest in a family
home rather than a paying customer in a business venture.
The Royal Kabob, located in a little strip mall near Campbell
Avenue and Glenn Street, is one of the newer oases in Tucson for
classic Bedouin fare--and it's a fine addition to the local dining
scene.
An animated burble of Arabic voices greeted me as I entered the
Royal Kabob, reassuring me that what I was about to eat would
at least be authentic, if nothing else.
The restaurant space also gives the sense of a genuine, if somewhat
too comfortable, desert experience. The open chamber consists
of tables lined up along the sides of the room, Persian-style
rugs from end to end, and a tiered brass fountain with a soothing
flow of water. Murals covering the entire wall and ceiling depict
a giant desertarium. Midnight blue skies with twinkling stars,
flowing waves of desert sand, a sparkling white city in the distance,
a friendly family portrait and, of course, a camel or two, dot
the landscape all around.
The task of ordering is made difficult by the mouth-watering
aromas emanating from the kitchen--the temptation is great to
order one of everything.
Since the smell of meats grilling for the various kabobs is the
most seductive, we opt for an order of the royal kabob as well
as some babagannouge (this is their spelling, incidentally, for
all those accustomed to something different), a combination vegetarian
platter and the gyro sandwich.
Babagannouge, a delectable, creamy paste of roasted eggplant
and tahini (sesame butter) accented with the bite of fresh lemon
and garlic, is the perfect appetizer when served with soft pita
bread. The Royal Kabob's version of this eggplant specialty is
tasty, if perhaps on the bland side. A tad more lemon and garlic
would have improved the flavor.
With a restaurant named Royal Kabob, you'd expect to find several
skewered wonders on the menu. Indeed, this is the case. Lamb (served
cubed as well as ground, spiced and shaped into a mini meatloaf)
and chicken are seasoned and grilled with various veggies and
served atop a bed of saffron rice. An order of the royal kabob
will give you an opportunity to sample each of these.
The chicken kabob, consisting of generous chunks of marinated
and quick-grilled breast meat, was particularly yummy, retaining
a remarkable moistness and flavor considering its seared condition.
The lamb, cooked to a medium rare, was also quite good, though
it didn't seem to have as rich a complex of spices as the chicken
dish. The ground and seasoned lamb was decent, but, considering
the vibrant flavors of the other two kabob choices, I'd recommend
opting for these instead.
In addition to a sizable portion of meat and rice, the royal
kabob comes with a salad, poker chip-sized falafel patties, stuffed
grape leaves and hummus. Each side dish was serviceable, if not
the most stunning examples of their kind to be found in the city.
However, a veritable mountain of satisfying food for $9.95 is
a pretty good deal, one I wouldn't hesitate to recommend.
The vegetarian combination plate ($5.75) included hummus (garbanzo
bean dip), tabbouleh (a parsley and bulgar wheat salad), rice-stuffed
grape leaves and falafel. Again, everything was tasty enough,
with the tabbouleh--which was heavily parsleyed in this instance--the
standout item on the platter.
The gyros, or shawerma, a combination of tender, thinly sliced,
slow-roasted beef and lamb folded in to puffy pita stuffed with
chopped tomatoes, onions, shredded lettuce and a seasoned yogurt
sauce, was a savory sandwich meal that sufficiently hit the spot.
Dessert specials vary daily, but there aren't too many occasions
when baklava is not an option. Honeyed layers of buttered phyllo
dough and ground nuts, accompanied by a steaming cup of dark,
sweet Arabic coffee is an ideal way to close out a meal at the
Royal Kabob.
Good food, pleasant atmosphere, warm and welcoming hosts. No
mirages here--the Royal Kabob is the genuine article.
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