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Use Your Noodle And Head Over To Pasta Palmiti For A Fresh Take On Take-Out.
By Rebecca Cook
FORCED TO DESIGNATE one chef-d'oeuvre as the perfect food,
I'd be hard pressed to come up with any comestible more worthy
than pasta. This choice does hedge a bit, given the myriad combinations
of ingredients that coalesce under the pasta umbrella.
Nevertheless, pasta is ideal on many levels: Low in fat and easy
to digest, it's a nearly flawless source for carbohydrates. It
comes in a wide variety of styles and shapes, ranging from stringy
(spaghetti, linguini, angel hair) to tubular (rigatoni, penne)
to fanciful (bow tie or butterfly). Sauces may be heavily laden
with cream and butter, or instead consist of a fusion of fresh
herbs and vegetables with just a splash of olive oil to hold them
together. Pasta lovers can indulge their passion every night and
never get bored, due to the endless possibilities.
Scott Brayer, owner of Pasta Palmita, clued into this wealth
of pasta potential and has struck pure culinary gold in the shadows
of the Catalina Foothills. Featuring "Pastas of the World,"
Brayer has produced a restaurant that offers a cornucopia of dishes
suitable for any occasion, whether it's dining out with a loved
one or eating take-out at home with the kids. Located in the midst
of a suburbia predominantly populated by professionals, Brayer
has astutely assembled an eatery that offers a delicious and healthy
alternative to the usual drive-thru fare to which many are forced
to resort as they make their way home after a hard day's work.
If you don't have the time, the energy or the skill to whip up
dinner yourself, Pasta Palmita provides a tempting alternative.
In fact, the food here is so tasty and economical, you may never
cook again.
Located in the Basha's shopping center at the corner of Sunrise
Drive and Kolb Road, Pasta Palmita--with its limited indoor seating
and primarily counter service--is not necessarily the place to
go for a classically romantic evening (although if you bring the
bubbly, the restaurant will provide the bucket of ice). If the
weather cooperates, some outdoor patio tables are an option; but
these, too, with inevitable parking-lot exhaust and perpetually
gawking foot traffic, constitute questionable dining environs.
Fortunately, Pasta Palmita excels at take-out, which admirably
matches the needs of people on the go.
Brayer's pastas are divided into four categories: Italian, Far
East, Southwest and nouvelle. Consider the pleasure of pasta with
a traditional marinara sauce (meatballs optional); an exotic peanut
"bow-Thai" pasta with chicken; the healthfully sweet
garlic, shiitake and chicken pasta; or a delectable Mediterranean
bow-tie pasta tossed with cream pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, black
olives, pine nuts, chicken and feta cheese. These tempting morsels
but skim the surface of all that Brayer has to offer. In deference
to variety being the spice of life and all, Pasta Palmita also
features an impressive selection of soups, salads and hot subs,
as well as a list of party pasta portions that can serve up to
10 people.
On our first foray into Pasta Palmita, we selected at least one
item from each of the four categories: pasta with marinara sauce
plus the meatballs, the "bow-thai" chicken pasta, Teriyaki
linguini primavera, Southwest chicken and linguini, and a triumvirate
of wild mushrooms with angel hair.
The whole family dotted their plates with tastes of each, except
for the lone vegetarian who was relegated to the delights of the
mushroom pasta only. Each item had its fans, with the overall
consensus being that there wasn't one bummer in the batch. Most
popular by a nose was the Southwest linguini, tossed with a zesty
red chile and sherry cream sauce, sun-dried tomatoes, and tender
chunks of chicken breast. The balance of flavors in this dish--simultaneously
spicy, sweet, smoky and faintly creamy--were extraordinary. Even
the kids, who usually eschew anything complex, found the dish
delicious.
The marinara sauce was imbued with the characteristically sweet,
gentle nature of fresh, pureed tomatoes, and contained an intrigue
of garlic, oregano and fresh basil. The hefty meatballs were pronounced
"really good" by the children (who devoured them before
the adults had an opportunity to take even a nibble). The mushroom
pasta, with its subtle infusion of earthy fungi and fresh thyme,
tickled the more mature palates; and the fiery Thai peanut sauce
tossed with bow-ties, julienned carrots and chopped broccoli added
a new dimension to the familiar childhood experience of peanut
butter. Finally, the Teriyaki pasta, with its tender-crisp assortment
of vegetables and dash of fresh ginger, was generally satisfying
(though it suffered ever so slightly from its pasta being overcooked).
All in all, it was a fabulous take-out meal, and we eagerly marked
our calendars for the next night-off at Palmita.
For Round Two, we summoned an august gathering to partake in
one of the restaurant's pasta party packages. Seven of the eatery's
pastas may be ordered in mass quantities, in amounts designed
to feed groups of either five or 10 people. To make a complete
meal, a simple mixed-green or Caesar salad, in half portions or
whole, can be added to your order with corresponding amounts of
garlic bread.
We chose the cappellini Palmita as our main course: thin strands
of angel hair mixed with fresh diced tomato, loads of sliced black
olives, oregano, basil, thyme and finely grated parmesan cheese.
Caesar salad satisfied the green requisite, and soup was ordered
as an opener, with individual orders of garlic bread added.
Although Pasta Palmita packs all their to-go food in air tight
plastic containers, there will always be the dilemma of keeping
food in its prime if you don't happen to live close to the restaurant.
By the time we reached our destination (some 20 minutes away),
the large, 9-by-13-inch pan of pasta had cooled to the point where
the large mass of grated cheese on top had congealed into a solid
mass, a condition that gentle reheating did not ameliorate. In
addition, the Caesar salad had begun to wilt under the weight
of its dressing, and the soup had lost its steam, so to speak.
None of this, of course, is the fault of the restaurant. I mention
it only as a reminder that carting food away from its creative
cradle can be a risky affair.
A house specialty at Pasta Palmita is the red bell-pepper soup,
a smooth and elegant beginning to any meal. Light and creamy,
it perfectly pays homage to the sweet, subtle nature of its signature
ingredient. Conversely, the meatball soup is hearty--boldly seasoned
and densely packed with nuggets of meat and chopped vegetables.
Both were roundly scrumptious, and could be thoroughly enjoyed
without the benefit of additional food orders.
The Caesar's dressing was similarly impressive; nicely infused
with the robust flavors of garlic, Worcestershire and anchovies.
Other salads at Pasta Palmita are also very good, with a lovely
mix of fresh greens, vegetables and various cheeses. The dressings
may be a little too heavy on the olive oil for some tastes, but
we found this quite an enjoyable feature of the mild vinaigrettes.
Our pasta choice for the group, though, was mildly disappointing--especially
compared to our knock-out first samplings. Unless you're a huge
fan of black olives, the cappellini was studded with so many that
they practically overwhelmed every other flavor in the dish. Furthermore,
the dried herbs had not been thoroughly incorporated, which gave
them a sere, grainy texture that was discernible with each bite
and left several of us scrabbling for toothpicks afterwards.
The garlic bread--single, vertical rolls that are split, rubbed
with garlic and broiled in a contraption devised solely for that
purpose--is one of the highlights of any meal at Pasta Palmita.
Each serving offers two pieces of bread, which may not be enough
if you're working your way through a multi-course meal.
The only dessert offered at Pasta Palmita is tiramisu, which
Brayer has sent in from a local bakery. It's a satisfactory enough
ending to a meal, but certainly won't be the thing that keeps
you coming back.
You'll come back because the food is delicious, the portions
ample and the owner a genial host. If only Pasta Palmita had a
drive-thru window; then it could truly break new ground in the
evolving world of fast food.
Pasta Palmita. 6878 E. Sunrise Drive. 529-9557.
Open 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 9:30 a.m. to
10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday. V, MC, checks.
No liquor, but you can bring your own. Menu items: $2.75-$7.95.
Party pasta meals: $22-$45.
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