Eastside Mexican? Tucson's Latest Restaurant Is A Surprising Hit. By Rebecca Cook THE GRAND OPENING of a large Mexican food restaurant on the city's eastside is a premier greeted with a fair amount of skepticism. After all, Tucson is undeniably blessed with an abundance of Mexican restaurants, some so well known that people are rumored to jet in from around the country just to visit them. What could an uppity newcomer--one that looked to me to have tremendous tourist-trap potential--possibly have to offer that Tucson didn't already possess in duplicate? The truth is that Mexico City, the restaurant in question, has a great many things to offer, not the least of which is excellent food at family-budget prices. Don't be fooled by its Red Lobster proportions and decor--the fare at Mexico City is the delicious, genuine article. When Mexico City first opened in late May, the menu included, of all things, an Hungarian influence as well as the expected enchiladas and fajitas. Currently, however, the overt European influence has vanished, replaced with Mexican specialties of a decided continental flair. For example, both chicken and beef can be ordered with lecso, a zesty relish of sautéed red, green and yellow bell peppers, chopped tomatoes, onions and red chiles. I could find no definition of the word "lecso" in any dictionary I own, neither the Webster's, culinary nor Spanish-English versions, but this variation of the accompanying fajita-style vegetables reminded me ever so slightly of a chicken paprika dish I sampled once. The gulyas may have disappeared from the menu, but a trace here and there definitely remains. Seating at Mexico City is plentiful and includes the option of dining indoors or outside on the walled patio. Once we're seated, the requisite bowl of corn tortilla chips appeared accompanied by a triumvirate of salsas which vary in degrees of intensity (green being the mildest). On weekend nights the joint is jumping and, consequently, service tends to be slow at times. On my first visit we opted for patio seating, and were ignored for the next 15 to 20 minutes. Once that snafu was resolved, however, the service was extremely attentive and on-target. On a second visit the service was outstanding--until it came time for the bill, at which point, our waiter disappeared and we waited an additional 15 minutes for him to reappear. But if you can manage just a little patience, you'll find the food at Mexico City is beyond your expectations. Daily specials spot the menu, and these are really not to be missed. One day a grilled salmon with mango salsa ($9.95) was featured. With a deep sigh of trepidation, we ordered it. What arrived later was a very large chunk of flaky-fresh grilled salmon fillet topped with a delicious sweet-spicy salsa of finely chopped mangoes, fresh cilantro and green chiles. Notoriously picky about the quality of the salmon I eat, I had to admit this was one of the best dishes I've had away from the Pacific Coast. On a more traditional note, the enchiladas at Mexico City are delicious. To begin with, the enchilada sauce is darker, richer and more robust than the thin, barely flavorful versions most of us are used to. Add to this more substantial, homemade corn tortillas and fillings of chicken, beef or mixed vegetables with cheese, and you have the makings of a gastronomic masterpiece. In particular the veggie enchiladas ($6) stand out with their filling of sautéed zucchini, mushrooms, onions, garlic and tomatoes and folded with just the right amount of cheese and sour cream. Pure heaven. The aforementioned grilled chicken with lecso ($8.50) was another pleasure: strips of tender chicken grilled with green peppers and onions and served beside that mysterious tomato-and-pepper relish. Fresh flour tortillas accompany this platter and are the ideal way to transfer the entire melange from plate to mouth. Also notable was a carne asada ($8.25) served with sliced avocado, grilled green onions, rice (or french fries) and beans (either charro or refried). Although the beef was served in one large, thin slice, it remained remarkably tender and even retained a pinkish interior. Sliced and mixed with the other ingredients, this also made a tasty filler for those tempting flour tortillas. Mexico City does not forget that parents are enthusiastic diners too, and so offers an impressive selection of kids' meals, including a quesadilla or flautas for $3.

		© 1995-97 Tucson Weekly . Info Booth