A Closer Look At the Current Crop Of Creameries
By Rebecca Cook
IF TUCSON'S YEARLY per capita consumption of ice cream
were plotted on a chart, there'd no doubt be a sharp spike during
the summer months.
Popular as a dessert all year round, ice cream takes on a quality
of pure salvation once the temperature creeps beyond the century
mark. Observe the children in your neighborhood flocking toward
the chiming ice-cream truck trundling up the street; note the
around-the-clock flow of human traffic into any of a number of
local ice-cream parlors.
When the heat's on, it seems we all scream for ice cream.
There was a time when our options for satisfying the craving
for creamy coolness were limited to a few establishments in town
offering shakes, cones and hot-fudge sundaes.
Today, we're privileged choose from a plethora of ice-cream vendors,
making it likely that no matter where you are at any moment of
the day, you're within striking distance of icy, sweet relief.
Here's the inside scoop on where to find the parlor that best
suits you:
Austin's, 2920 E. Broadway. (327-3892): "Famous
since 1959" proclaims the sign at this midtown restaurant.
The year mentioned, however, refers only to the opening of the
Tucson operation--in Watertown, N.Y., the Austin family began
tinkering in the ice-cream business as early as the 1920s.
Many of the recipes used in those days of Prohibition are still
utilized at Austin's today. Flavors to check out include English
toffee, burgundy-cherry, ginger and root beer. The milkshakes
are legendary and the hot-fudge topping sweet, gooey and darkly
delicious.
Cold Stone Creamery, Inc., with locations at 1927 E. Speedway
(795-7576); and 7090 N. Oracle Road (297-6522): Remember going
to a picnic or backyard social gathering where the concluding
glory of the meal was hand-churned ice cream? The critical question
during the interminable grinding period was who would get to lick
the dasher, the machine's beater, which was luxuriously coated
with soft, creamy ice cream.
Welcome to the world of Cold Stone Creamery, which capitalizes
on this coveted memory by producing ice cream that's hand-mixed
before your very eyes on an iced marble slab. Various ingredients--anything
from chocolate sprinkles and crushed candy bars to seasonal fresh
fruit--can be mixed into a generous heaping of your flavor of
choice. The end result is scooped into a cup or a variety of cone
concoctions. (My personal favorite is the sinfully indulgent chocolate-dipped
waffle variety.)
Amazingly, even Cold Stone's nonfat frozen-yogurt treats set
new standards of rich and creamy, defying the typical "it's
okay" response that many other health-conscious desserts
engender.
A similarly themed establishment is The Marble Slab Creamery,
in the Crossroads Festival center, 4811 E. Grant Road (327-8006).
With their slogan, "Just out of the churn," Marble Slab
also does a good job of evoking a time when ice cream couldn't
be conveniently bought in a store, but had to be made by hand
at home.
Walk through the doors at the Slab and the just-out-of-the-oven
aroma of fresh-baked cones assails the senses. Now that they have
your attention, check out the myriad choices safely behind glass.
To make this onerous decision-making easier, the establishment
offers several pre-named options: How about the Chocolate Thunder,
a combination of double-dark ice cream, chocolate chips, crumbled
fudge brownies and fudge sauce? Or choose from concoctions named
after the staff. (The Lora, made with vanilla cinnamon ice cream,
graham cracker crumbs and chocolate chips, is particularly tasty.)
Swensen's Ice-Cream Factory, with locations at Park Mall,
5900 E. Broadway (748-0555); and 6444 N. Oracle Road (297-9974):
Like many ice-cream parlors, Swensen's hearkens to another era,
where the preferred mode of cross-country transportation was the
Iron Horse.
Children delight as much from the trains that rev around the
ceiling track as they do the hand-packed ice cream. If you're
really hungry, or have a loved one to share with, the sundaes
here are tough to beat. I'm especially fond of the Black Bart,
a luscious mess of chocolate ice cream topped with gooey marshmallow,
fudge sauce, whipped cream, chopped nuts and, of course, a Maraschino
cherry.
Eric's Fine Foods & Ice Cream, 1702 E. Speedway (795-2280),
has been a favorite among UA students for years. Also a featured
dessert in many restaurants around town, Eric's ice cream has
always been singular for its bold flavor and subtle innovation.
(I recall a Mexican chocolate I sampled once that was divine--dark,
rich chocolate permeated with the barest hint of cinnamon. The
Aztecs would've swooned).
I wanted to revisit Eric's, but seemed to consistently find the
place closed, with no sign on the window to indicate hours of
operation. Hopefully they just cut back for the summer months,
and will be in full swing in a couple of weeks when school is
back in session.
A viable alternative to any of these local specialty ice-cream
stores are the stalwart standbys: the multitude of Baskin-Robbins
and Dairy Queens sprinkled all over town.
Baskin-Robbins' 31-plus flavors offer a taste for
every mood, and their ubiquitous Cappuccino Blasts (a deluxe coffee
milkshake) are an especially refreshing way to beat a mid-afternoon
summertime slump. Dairy Queen's soft ice-cream, peaked into a
standard cake cone, is still a treat on a hot day. The Blizzard,
a cross between a new ice cream flavor and a milkshake, consists
of vanilla ice-cream mixed with your choice of crushed candy or
Oreo cookie crumbs. The Butterfinger Blizzard is particularly
sublime.
There's no question that the summers here in Tucson can be brutal.
You just need to know how to cope. Ice cream helps.
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