Outstanding Mexican Food On The Northwest Side? You Betcha, At El Mezón del Cobre.
By Rebecca Cook
WHAT COULD POSSIBLY possess me to write about yet another
Mexican restaurant? How many ways can one sing the praises of
cheese enchiladas, chimichangas and tacos? And isn't it true that
once you've eaten in one fine local establishment specializing
in south-of-the-border cuisine, you've ostensibly eaten in them
all? The answers are as follows: 1) I never was very good at leaving
well enough alone. 2) The exact numbers have yet to be determined,
but this is a reviewer's greatest, perpetual challenge. (3) Hardly.
So it is that I'm here to tell you of another regional restaurant
specializing not only in the standard Mexican fare served in several
venues throughout town, but some signature mariscos (i.e.,
seafood) as well.
Welcome to El Mezón del Cobre (translation: "The
Copper Inn"), a tiny restaurant breaking all the rules in
glorious fashion on the north side of Tucson. First of all, there's
the North First Avenue location: For years, the local wisdom has
declared (mostly accurately) that it wasn't possible to get decent
Mexican food north of downtown. Although El Mezón would
be perfectly at home on South Fourth Avenue, it's steadfastly
northwest, suffering no discernible decline in its culinary excellence
and ambiance.
Which brings us to its menu, which works magic with all kinds
of shrimp variations, assembling even the customary dishes in
a most unusual fashion. Regulars whisper of the rarer daily specials
with a reverence due holy communion. At El Mezón, it pays
to be in the know--rumor has it that personal favorites will be
specially prepared if the owners are given adequate advance notice.
Although those craving a simple bean and cheese burrito will
find easy satisfaction, it's the seafood that takes center stage
at El Mezón. Delightful cocteles of shrimp, oyster
and squid are served in a velvety, cold tomato broth spiced with
chopped onion, green bell pepper, garlic and fresh lime juice.
Extra limes are provided, as is a zippy red-chile sauce called
huichol.
The kitchen provides the basics, and then everyone happily shakes
and squeezes additional ingredients into the mix until the perfect,
individualized concoction is achieved. A very nice feature. One
recommended house specialty is the fantasy shrimp: tender, curled
darlings stuffed with Mexican white cheese, wrapped in mesquite-smoked
bacon, and heated until the cheese is gooey and the bacon sizzling.
No fewer than a half-dozen of these large crustaceans are served
on a platter with fluffy, mild Spanish rice. Though sufficient
fare for a hearty appetite, this combination of cheese, shrimp
and bacon is cumulatively rich, making this an ideal dish to share
in order to avoid over-glut.
Hot sauce fanatics will discover to their everlasting glee that
the piquant huichol makes an additional appearance in another
shrimp specialty suitably titled "huichol shrimp." Oooeee!
If you're interested in generating your own brand of evaporative
cooling, this is definitely an item you'll want to try. Several
large shrimp are bathed in that tell-tale burnt orange sauce,
with little other adornment to distract from the main event.
Although incredibly hot, the sauce is nevertheless addictive
in its flavor, inducing the unwary diner to persevere to the last
of the tender shrimp. An icy margarita and a handkerchief to mop
your fevered brow should suffice to cool the heat.
Another eye-popping pleasure on El Mezón's table is the
fried red snapper. Accustomed as we are to delicate preparations
of our fish--in particular, excluding all identifiable body parts--we
were slightly taken aback by the appearance of a whole fish barely
contained on the platter on which it was served. My skater teen
was the beneficiary of this particular delicacy, and was plainly
discomfited by the bulging eye staring up at him from the plate.
His younger brother was not helping the matter, being keenly
interested in what appeared to him to be some kind of science
project. "Look, you can see his teeth," the 7-year-old
pointed out. With a scowl, our brave skater fluttered open an
extra napkin and circumspectly covered the poor snapper's head,
after which he seemed to enjoy the dish very much.
The meat had been sectioned, lightly coated and thoroughly crisped
to a striated amber brown. Amazingly, the fish remained moist
with this treatment, and was absolutely delicious with a squeeze
of fresh lime. Even with the head, I'd order this again in a heartbeat.
(I can't speak for the adolescent, however, who might opt next
time for the obligatory but more familiar hamburger-and-fries
portion of the menu.)
Finally, in the realm of enchiladas, El Mezón is said
to know no equal in this town. Instead of the traditional rolled
variation we've come to know and love, here the enchilada aspires
to three layers of corn tortillas laid flat and covered in turn
with shredded chicken, grated cheese, full-bodied guacamole, sour
cream, shredded lettuce and chopped tomato. The whole is doused
with a sinfully rich and cunningly spiced enchilada sauce, baked
until heated through. I was too busy sampling shrimp during my
visits, but aficionados of the establishment tell me El Mezón's
enchiladas are to die for (cholesterol counts notwithstanding).
It's high on my list to explore their intricacies on a future
visit.
The only sour note in our experience was a cheese crisp that
failed to fulfill the latter part of its moniker. Perhaps the
pervasive humidity got to the tortillas that day--they were tough
and elastic rather than lightly crunchy. This unpleasant circumstance
caused the mixture of yellow and white cheese to separate from
the tortilla with every bite, and did nothing to enhance the flavor.
Qué lástima.
But all in all, El Mezón is worthy of addition to your
list of Tucson's outstanding Mexican restaurants. The tiled cantina
atmosphere is a balm during these dog days of summer, and the
seafood is first-rate (even when it still has eyes for your approval).
Why write about yet another Mexican restaurant? One trip to El
Mezón del Cobre will explain it all.
El Mezón del Cobre. 2960 N. First Ave. 791-0977.
Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 11 a.m. to
10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Full bar. V, MC, checks. Menu items:
$2.75-$16.95.
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