Taqueria Pico De Gallo's Exotic Menu Offers Some Unlikely Treats. By Rebecca Cook SO THE SECRET is out. For nearly seven years, Taqueria Pico de Gallo has been serving delectable burros, birria and ceviche on South Sixth Avenue in relative obscurity, virtually unknown except to a legion of fans who savored their clandestine knowledge of where to get great Mexican food. Now you can kiss all that goodbye. From the moment you open the screen door and step into a room filled with bustling activity, incredible aromas and walls covered with posters reminiscent of Mexican dime-store novels, you know you're in the presence of something special. Although it might appear at first glance that you must order at the counter, tableside service is indeed available--assuming, of course, that you can snag a table. Pico de Gallo is cozy, with a total of eight tables divided between two small rooms (smoking and non-smoking). If you see an opening, pounce on it. Amazingly, the service was brisk, efficient and cheerful on my last visit even though the place was full to bursting with first-time customers who insisted on lengthy explanations of all menu items. It's true that Pico de Gallo's menu borders on the exotic for those more familiar with Mexican food featuring the ubiquitous chimichanga and tacos. Here you'll find sandwiches (tortas) made with large fried buns and topped with your choice of nine different fillings, including carne asada, birria (a Mexican version of barbecued shredded meat), cabeza (yes, head), lengua (tongue), barbacoa, beans, fish, cahuamanta (manta ray) and guacamole. When's the last time you saw that on a menu? Everything I've tried at Pico de Gallo has been fresh and delicious, but the carne asada is a dish of exquisite flavor. These tender strips of beef hot off the grill and rolled in a tortilla or spread on a bun are a deeply satisfying meal. I have no idea what the Delgado family does to make their carne asada so savory, but it is without a doubt some of the best I've ever tasted. A special treat one day was the ceviche de camarón tostada, finely chopped shrimp, onions and tomatoes "cooked" in lime juice and served atop a fried homemade corn tortilla. Although a bit messy to eat, I nevertheless loved every bite. With such impressive main menu items, side dishes could be easily overlooked. At Pico de Gallo, however, this is not possible, as the frijoles and rice rise to a class unto themselves. Smoky and tender, the beans are either a remarkable complement to your asada or fish or a perfect filler for that burro or taco. I usually ignore the rice on my plate entirely, but one forkful of Pico de Gallo's version had me hooked. Fluffy and cooked with bits of tomato, onion, garlic and chile, is one side dish the dishwasher is unlikely to see. Untried as of this writing is Pico de Gallo's enormous fresh fruit cocktail, which is tossed in a tangy lemon and chile dressing. A bowl of this whizzed past on its way to another table and it looked so gorgeous that had I not already overindulged in ceviche, rice and beans, I wouldn't have been able to pass it by. Maybe mañana. No alcohol is served at Pico de Gallo but you can quench your thirst with a soda, fresh-squeezed limeade or horchata, the quintessential Mexican rice drink lightly sweetened with cinnamon sugar. Best of all, Pico de Gallo's prices are dirt cheap--the most expensive thing on the menu is a combination plate that runs just over five dollars. Even Taco Bell can't match that. Let's hope that despite their newfound notoriety, Pico de Gallo will continue to operate just as it always has. With its great food, friendly service and modest prices, it's a real gem on the local dining scene. Taqueria Pico de Gallo. 2618 S. Sixth Ave. 623-8775. Open 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday.

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