Tucson Weekly: Pub Grub (May 22

Frog & Firkin Comes Up With A Hearty Selection Of Brews, And For A British Joint Surprisingly Good Food.
By Rebecca Cook
FORTUNATELY IT'S NO longer necessary to book a flight on British Airways just to find solace in a real pub. Instead check out Frog & Firkin, Tucson's answer to a parched anglophile's prayer.
Co-owner Mike Faber, formerly in the concrete-casting trade, developed an affinity for British pubs during several business trips to the empire island. Once back in Tucson, Faber noted the dearth of any similar eating and drinking establishments and made plans to bring a wedge of British culture to the Sonoran desert.
Chow Opening in 1994 at the corner of Speedway and Wilmot Road, Faber was forced to move his business last year when his lease expired. Although it certainly didn't seem like it at the time, this sudden need to relocate turned out to be a small blessing in disguise.
Combining talents with girlfriend Erin Greene, who ran Café Comidas, and Greene's mum, Muffy, Faber soon moved into the familiar and popular space just west of the University of Arizona campus.
People who fondly remember the delicious food at Café Comidas will be happy to know Greene is still in the kitchen, whipping up a smorgasbord of surprisingly scrumptious dishes.
For aficionados of fine beer and ciders, Frog & Firkin is bound to gladden your heart with an impressive selection of 26 draughts and more than 100 bottled beers.
If you think Frog & Firkin is just another college bar, prepare to be awed. Where else in town can you experience Frank Sinatra night, taking place every Wednesday and including a pasta dinner, glass of Chianti, cigar and tender crooning--all for about eight bucks?
In addition, the food here triumphantly transcends the typical burger-and-pizza fare, although you'll find the latter gloriously represented on the menu as Firkin pies, available in a mouth-watering assortment of deep-dish, gourmet renditions.
Recognizing that many patrons might well be interested in only a quick brew and a light appetizer, Frog & Firkin offers a plethora of meal openers, ranging from a gargantuan heap of french fries to homemade stuffed foccacia bread.
Trying to span the distance from fried to sublime (not that I think for a moment the two are mutually exclusive), we began one visit with a platter of crispy, lightly battered sweet onion rings ($3.95) and a subsequent meal with a half loaf of panzanella ($2.95).
Both beginners were excellent, especially the panzanella, which consisted of a split half-loaf of "pub bread" topped with ripened, sliced tomatoes drizzled with a subtly herbed olive oil.
Lunch on the front patio of Frog & Firkin's historic home venue was a delight on a mild spring day (Faber plans to install misters to keep it pleasant throughout the summer).
The Lady Di sandwich ($7.25), grilled chicken breast, pesto, tomato, sliced red onion and melted brie encased in a baked oval of the signature pub bread, was a singular sensation and inspired rave comments with each and every bite.
For those individuals committed to a daily roughage allotment, the Manchester cobb salad is a more-than-satisfactory dish. Sliced red apple, walnuts, crispy mesquite-smoked bacon, mushrooms, red onion and cubes of Swiss cheese served over a lavish bed spinach and mixed greens was an especially delicious salad, particularly when dressed with Frog & Firkin's simple vinaigrette.
It's worth mentioning that all of the salad dressings at Frog & Firkin are outstanding. Of particular note is the sun-dried tomato and feta vinaigrette, which could dress up even the sorriest of lettuce-based offerings.
We were worried that dinner on a Saturday night would be a chaotic collegiate scene, complete with loud, drunken brawls and conversation-dampening live music. While obviously busy and gearing up for a big night, the servers here were ever mindful of their dining patrons.
Opting to sit in a narrow back room, we were treated to attentive service and an atmosphere conducive to witty repartee--not that we could come up with any, mind you.
Frog & Firkin's entrees defy all the usual bland and boiled pub stereotypes and range from hearty stews, meatloaf and the traditional shepherd's pie to an elegant preparation of grilled salmon fillet served over fresh tortellini.
Again, we tried to run the culinary gamut here, my companion choosing to sample the roasted potato and vegetable medley topped with melted brie cheese ($6.95), while I was enticed to try an intriguing brie and raspberry chicken ($8.95).
The vegetarian stew was a savory blend of potatoes, green peppers, red onion, mushrooms, tomatoes and an aromatic infusion of thyme, rosemary and garlic, which was further enhanced by a topping of the melted brie (melted cheddar is also an option).
The chicken dish, a layering of boneless breast meat, sliced fresh mushrooms, red onion, spinach, brie and raspberry sauce, was not as spectacular as anticipated, perhaps because the brie was a tad overripe and contributed a slightly gamy taste to the mix.
Dessert pickings are slim, although a chocolate peanut-butter pie was offered (we passed), and our waiter muttered something about scones occasionally being available.
Secure two lights in the tower, Paul Revere; the British have come by land and, in Tucson, you'll find them solidly entrenched at Frog & Firkin.
Photo by Desiree A. Rios
Frog & Firkin. 874 E. University Blvd. 623-7507. Open 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. daily. Closed on major holidays. Full bar. V, MC, AMEX, checks. Menu items: $1.75-$19.75.

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