Chef Shawn Manages The Short Trip From Trailer To Nearly Tip-Top Shop.
By Rebecca Cook
WHEN LAST WE checked in with Chef Shawn, he was ensconced
in a trailer in a midtown Texaco parking lot, dishing out a surprising
assortment of healthy gourmet treats.
It was an unquestionably odd sensation to simultaneously inhale
garlic and ethanol in one slow breath, but somehow it all seemed
to work.
So it was with slightly mixed feelings that I received the news
that Shawn Stanchfield had moved his operation from the mobile
to the stationary in a location right next door to his former
venue. On the one hand I was glad his modest successes had allowed
him to expand to a more permanent and easy-to-work-in setting,
but at the same time, I regretted the loss of a singularly quirky
eating experience.
All was not lost, however: Stanchfield chose for his next venture
a former hair salon, a place so saturated with the aromas of manufactured
beauty that crews had to work long and hard to eradicate any odorific
hints of what had been there previously.
Then there was the little matter of the "Chef Shawn"
sign, which was nestled in so snugly above the placard for the
neighboring optical business that it was difficult to tell where
one stopped and the other began. I'm quite sure that more than
a few motorists cruising placidly down Alvernon Way have had occasion
to ponder the nature of an enterprise called Chef Shawn's Optical
Dispensers.
The new space has been gradually transformed from a place of
permanent wave to culinary rave. To effect this metamorphosis,
Stanchfield enlisted the help of local artist Carolyn Stevens,
who has outfitted the small dining room with a dreamy, full-length
wall mural as well as colorful collage tabletops and chairs. The
place still has the feel of a work in progress, but it's coming
along.
Where Shawn made his reputation before was in offering quick
and healthy food that could be easily adapted to accommodate special
dietary requests. Looking into his new kitchen, you can see this
is still the case: Ingredients are stored separately and dishes
are prepared at the time they're ordered, making it possible to
eliminate or add various constituents as needed.
For diners on any kind of restricted diet, this is an invaluable
service.
Lunch and dinner are featured at Chef Shawn's, in addition to
take-out service and a catering business on the side. Although
separate menus are offered for the noonday and evening meals,
Chef Shawn is somewhat flexible, and, if possible, will provide
items from one or the other if specifically requested.
Lunch highlights a variety of sandwiches, burgers, salads and
pasta dishes, as well as a few stir-fry dishes and daily specials.
I opted for the teriyaki chicken wrap ($5.25) on my first visit,
and was very pleased with the tender, marinated strips of grilled
chicken, rice, broccoli and caramelized onions drizzled with teriyaki
sauce and wrapped within the soft confines of a fresh, red chile-scented
tortilla. Delicious.
The grilled vegetable salad ($5.50) was slightly less successful,
however. Comprised of a mixture of leafy greens, grilled zucchini,
yellow squash and eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes and shredded mozzarella
cheese, all tossed in a copious amount of a chipotle balsamic
vinaigrette, this healthful meal became bogged in its own virtue.
Not all the vegetables were cooked to perfection, and the dressing
saturated the greens to the point of wilting.
Dinner, however, was an unmitigated triumph.
We began the evening with the Southwestern pinwheel ($4.95),
black beans, fresh whole-kernel corn, chopped red pepper, avocado
and a jalapeño cream cheese spread enclosed in one of those
chile-inflected tortillas. Filling and delicious, this, along
with a bowl of soup, would make an excellent meal all by itself.
The pasta primavera with grilled portabella mushrooms ($9.95)
was unbelievably delicious: a bed of ziti pasta covered with sliced,
marinated portabella mushrooms, julienned carrots, broccoli and
freshly grated parmesan cheese, served with a miraculously light
cream sauce retaining all the flavor of its heavier and more caloric
kin.
The chicken piccata ($9.95) was also a small marvel. Any time
you sample a boneless, skinless chicken breast, crisp on the outside
and thoroughly cooked on the inside--yet with all its juicy goodness
intact--you can be certain you're in the presence of genius. This
was the case at Chef Shawn's, along with the added bonus of the
breast being gently bathed in a delicate white wine, lemon, butter,
capers and parsley sauce, and served alongside some cheesy mashed
potatoes and grilled green and yellow squash.
While dessert selections are not extensive, they should not be
overlooked. The specialty of the house may be Shawn's espresso
creme brulee ($2.95), which comes to your table along with a butane
torch so that your server can caramelize the sugared top on the
spot. Even if this coffee custard were not exceptionally yummy
(which it is), this finishing-touch performance is a spectacle
not to be missed.
Also splendid was Chef Shawn's apple pie ($2.95), which (sorry,
Mom) rivaled the best I've tasted. An individual pie, topped with
vanilla ice cream, is served piping hot to your table.
Before visiting Chef Shawn's I'd heard this was a restaurant
"on the bubble," a place with potential that hadn't
quite arrived as yet. There may indeed still be a few rough edges,
but, as far as I'm concerned, they're in the tournament.
Photo by Desiree A. Rios
Chef Shawn's. 526 N. Alvernon Way. 318-3384.
Open 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Closed Sunday.
No alcohol (you can bring your own). V, MC, AMEX, Checks. Menu
items: Lunch $3.25-$6.95 and Dinner $4.95-$9.95.
Chow Scan is The Weekly's selective guide to Tucson restaurants.
Send comments and updates to Chow, P.O. Box 2429, Tucson, AZ 85702;
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