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The Garland Has Been Serving Great Food For Nearly Two Decades.The Garland Has Been Serving Great Food For Nearly Two Decades.
By Rebecca Cook
OVER THE LAST 20 years Tucson has seen more than its share
of restaurants come and go. Anybody who's lived here for any length
of time can be overheard lamenting the passing of some favorite
eating establishment, lost forever to the maw of change.
The Garland Restaurant, which has weathered the better part of
the last few decades at the same location on East Speedway near
Stone Avenue, is the exception to this phenomenon of constant
transition. Steadily and quietly going about its business, the
restaurant has continued to do what it has done since the very
beginning: feature wholesome foods amidst the homespun ambience
of wood floors, stained glass and a centrally placed fireplace.
That such an unassuming effort has managed to survive all these
years is testament to the benefit of perseverance and putting
out a consistently good product.
Although The Garland's menu is diverse enough to cover the tastes
of everyone, its primary claim to fame has always been its attention
to vegetarian cuisine. In return for developing a menu that exceeds
the grasp of a few sprouty salads and a token vegetable stir-fry
with rice, customers come back again and again to sample the kitchen's
wares. If there is a simple explanation as to why The Garland
has survived when many other enterprises have faltered, it may
be the development of an incredibly loyal following.
Not unlike some of us, The Garland has aged a bit with time.
The exterior of the old home in which it resides is a bit weary;
chipped paint and torn awnings distinguish the façade,
and the grounds could use a thorough weeding. Superficial aesthetics
aside, however, The Garland is an exceptionally fine eatery. Apparently
the adage about not being able to judge a book by its cover occasionally
holds true for restaurants as well.
Although The Garland caters to a more vegetarian sensibility,
its menu is also peppered with a variety of meat items. An added
benefit for vegans is the option on several dishes to have them
made with a total absence of all animal products. In short, it's
hard to imagine that everyone wouldn't find something to his or
her liking. Perhaps no other restaurant in town combines such
disparate preferences so amicably.
Open daily beginning at 8 a.m., it isn't too surprising to discover
that breakfast is a very big deal at The Garland. In fact, given
the familiarity of several customers with the staff, it's obvious
that many people appear to have made the place part of their typical
weekend routine.
The morning menu consists of a wide variety of offerings, including
the standard bacon and eggs combo and the New Age option of tofu
scrambled with vegetables, cheese and seasonings.
The omelettes are first-rate: three eggs mixed, baked until golden
and folded with a wide assortment of ingredients. Everyone no
doubt has their favorite, but I was particularly fond of the guacamole,
tomato and cheese version ($7.50), which blended all the ingredients
in a harmonious balance of taste and texture. The guacamole, which
has the tendency to be either heavenly or profane, was creamy
and full-bodied, still retaining luscious nibbles of avocado,
onion and tomato. The chopped, fresh tomatoes cooked down to tender
vine-ripened morsels, and the cheese, which was added with a very
modest hand, enhanced rather than overwhelmed the whole. With
a dash or two of salsa, this was an ideal breakfast dish, especially
filling alongside the homefries and large slices of whole-wheat
toast that came with it. Although I haven't worked up the nerve
for it, I think next time I'll try ordering this same omelette
"enchilada style," ($2.25 additional charge) an option
available with each omelette order.
Also superb was a concoction known as the "English Channel,"
($6.50) two eggs (tofu may be substituted) with spinach, mushrooms,
chopped green onions, a fabulous mornay sauce and a combination
of Swiss and parmesan cheese served over a toasted English muffin.
Move over eggs Benedict, the British have landed! The mushrooms
and spinach are both cooked fresh and fully retain their full
flavors and the cheesy mornay sauce, which is admittedly a tad
on the rich side, is so subtly favored and delicately thickened
that it never threatens to disrupt the ensemble. The eggs were
cooked sunny side up, nice and runny and mixing coyly with everything
else on the plate.
Pancakes, waffles (the chocolate chip with real whipped cream
is bound to be a smash with the younger crowd), maple nut coffeecake,
fruit cups with yogurt sauce and hot oatmeal are also featured
on The Garland's breakfast menu.
Around 11 a.m., the focus turns to lunch, another meal with some
surprising twists on traditional themes. Soups (always homemade),
salads and sandwiches are of course offered, but so are stir-fried
buckwheat soba noodles (with a variety of other ingredients added),
quiche, pastas, crepes and a short selection of Mexican food.
Although nothing can be said to be served at bargain-basement
prices, all portions are quite grand, possibly eliminating the
need for dinner later on in the day.
Daily soup specials are always listed on the board near the entrance;
be sure to check them out. There are usually two selections, one
suitable for the vegetarian and the other more palatable to the
meat gnawer. In addition, the vague elevation of temperatures
has heralded the return of The Garland's gazpacho.
We tried this icy potage along with a cup of the featured clam
chowder and found both to be exceptional, especially the chowder,
which was velvety, savory and peppered with plenty of tender-chewy
clams and cubes of potato. Rather than the usual creamy white,
this clam chowder was a pale copper color, perhaps the result
of adding caramelized onions to the potage. The gazpacho was also
quite tasty, full of diced tomato, carrot, onions, cucumber, green
bell pepper, corn, cauliflower and plenty of fresh parsley. Mild
by Southern Arizona standards, the soup benefited enormously from
a dash or two of hot sauce.
Although I thought I might be sorely disappointed, I couldn't
resist the temptation to order real, honest-to-God crepes, an
item seldom seen on most of today's menus. Arriving at the table
in a frenzied sizzle, the shrimp and mushroom crepes ($8.50) were
a beautiful sight to behold. A mouthful of the crepe revealed
it to be chock full of sautéed mushrooms and rosy petite
shrimp. A lovely coral sauce draped the two crepes, permeating
the dish with the savory splendor of sharp cheese and aromatic
garlic. There was nothing at all complicated about the dish, yet
it was majestically delicious in all its particulars. The use
of outstanding fresh ingredients never fails to impress.
A chicken parmesan sandwich ($6.95), served on a choice of various
breads, completed our lunch setting with a messy but mouthwatering
flair. The moist, boneless chicken cutlet had been lightly breaded
and sautéed, topped with melted mozzarella and smothered
in a dark and savory marinara sauce. Delicious.
Desserts vary daily but are always cozy and homemade. A blueberry
cobbler ($3.95) topped with whipped cream was a wonderful form
of comfort food: a small bowl loaded with warm purple berries
and capped by a barely sweet biscuit. A large wedge of fudgy brownie
($2.95) was less successful, being a tad on the dry side for our
tastes.
The Garland's dinner menu might be the briefest of the day, but
it's by no means paltry. With prices that nudge the brink of high
end, items such as blackened mahi mahi ($13.95), Greek-style scampi
($15.95), chipotle chicken ($12.95) and tofu Normandy ($12.50)
are featured. Unfortunately, I was never able to sample from this
intriguing after-sunset menu, but, if it's in keeping with the
quality of the first two meals of the day, it's undoubtedly something
special. Close enough to Stone Avenue to make for a quick getaway
downtown, The Garland would be a fine place to grab a bite before
the theater or symphony.
There's really no mystery to The Garland's longevity. Serving
high-quality food that appeals to a diverse audience indicates
this is one restaurant that never goes out of style.
The Garland Restaurant. 119 E. Speedway Blvd. 792-4221.
Open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Friday and Saturday. Beer and wine. V, MC, AMEX, DC, checks. Menu
items: $2.95-$15.95.
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