Sampling The Suds At Tucson's Two Brew Pubs. By Rebecca Cook THE LAST TIME I wrote about a brewery in this column I left out a key piece of information. Although I went on at length about the type and quality of food offered (which, after all, is my primary focus), I neglected to discuss the myriad wonders of the liquid euphoria flowing from the taps. I heard about this sin of omission for months. Mercifully, circumstances now allow me to rectify this faux pas. Two brew entities have recently opened in Tucson, and on my respective visits, believe me, I paid particular attention to the beer. Interestingly, both businesses impart that deja-vu-all-over-again feeling. Gentle Ben's Brewing Company will ring a bell with anyone who set foot on the University of Arizona campus within the last 20 years; and the Breckenridge Brewery and Pub, while new to Tucson in its own right, has taken up a quick and cozy residence in the home of our city's only other former brew pub. Gentle Ben's has expanded, modernized and moved around the corner from its previous location. It's now on University Boulevard just outside the UA main gate. As always, parking near the university is a vexing challenge, but if you can manage to find a spot, you'll be well rewarded for your efforts at Ben's. First off--yes, let's talk about it--the beer. Gentle Ben's offers seven varieties of brew, ranging from an ashen ale to a mahogany stout. In order of their deepening shades of amber, the beers are: Arizona Gold Ale, Taylor Jayne's Raspberry Ale, Copperhead Ale, Chef's India Pale Ale, Redcat Amber Ale, Nolan Porter and Oatmeal Stout. In evaluating beer, I'm keenly aware of individual preference; however, I hope you'll permit a few general observations. First of all, Ben's Brews are all uniformly pretty tasty. There's not a dog in the bunch, although I must say I'm not a fan of the fruit-bouquet-along-with-my-suds variety. In addition, the Arizona Gold will be too-too light for true beer devotees, and I found that the Copperhead and India Pale Ale left a slightly unpleasant bitter taste lingering on the palate for just a tad too long. My favorite here was the Redcat Amber, which struck a nice balance between the pale and the swarthy. The food? Well, it probably won't be the focus of many of the people who find their way there, but it's actually quite good, and fairly affordable. Lunch and dinner, each with its own menu, are served. Offerings range from soups, salads and burgers to grilled salmon and a stuffed, glazed pork loin. I tried a modest cut of prime rib, and my companion sampled a daily special of cabrilla crusted with prickly pear, garlic and mixed herbs. The prime rib was a total success--rare, tender and juicy, just the way I like it--but the cabrilla was just okay. The fish was neither as fresh nor as interesting, given its treatment, as it should have been. A kiwi sorbet for dessert, however, was a hit, and I can't imagine anything more refreshing when Tucson reaches meltdown temperatures once again. THE BRECKENRIDGE BREWERY and Pub has moved into the site of the River Road Brewery, that quixotic pub that flashed before our eyes and then disappeared abruptly into the night. The posh location at Campbell Avenue and River Road makes the place a natural favorite for young professionals on the prowl for something hip, even if there are better places in town to suck down a beer. Based out of the Colorado town by the same name, this is the sixth Breckenridge Pub to open across the country, and it appears to have some built-in following based on this potential name recognition. Four regular and one special beer are brewed on site: Avalanche Ale, India Pale Ale, Mountain Wheat, Oatmeal Stout, and, the day we visited, the perplexingly popular Raspberry Ale. The Avalanche Ale is a perfectly serviceable beer, full-bodied and tasty, but the others failed to impress. The Oatmeal Stout is the next-best of the bunch, but all tasted slightly off, rather like some of Uncle Stu's home brew. The food here is not very different than that found at Gentle Ben's, although the offerings are nowhere near as diverse, and the prices have been nudged just a little higher. We ordered the fish and chips, expecting marvelous things from this traditional ale house fare. Breckenridge's entry in this category was too heavily breaded for our tastes, and the accompanying almost-burnt-to-a-crisp french fries did not improve the dish. The grilled pork chops with smashed potatoes (this means lumpy with the skins left intact, I guess) and gravy were a better deal. The best deal was an appetizer of a garlicky baked artichoke dip served in a toasted bread boule. This, along with a glass of Avalanche Ale, is all one would ever need to ensure satisfaction at the Breckenridge Brewery. As far as I'm concerned, the nod goes to Gentle Ben's on both the beer and food counts. I know parking is a drag, but look at it this way: You shouldn't be sampling ales and driving anyway. Take a cab. Gentle Ben's Brewing Company. 865 E. University Blvd. 624-4177. Open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily, with dinner from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Beer and wine. V, MC, AMEX, Ch. Menu items: $1.50-$12.95. Breckenridge Brewery and Pub. 1980 E. River Road. 577-0800. Open from 11 a.m. until 1 a.m. daily, serving dinner until 10 p.m. Beer and wine. V, MC, AMEX, no personal checks. Menu items: $2.50-$15.95. Photo by Sean Justice

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