|
Add some spice to your life at hospitable Le Mediterranean.
By Rebecca Cook
AMONG THE VARIETY of international cuisines, the food of
the Middle East stands out in my mind among the most exotic and
unusual to the typical American palate. Ingredients frequently
assigned side-dish status--such as beans or rice--take center
stage in this other desert cuisine; and the use of aromatic spices
such as cinnamon, clove and allspice (spices usually reserved
in this country for certain dessert items) strike the tongue with
a persistent twist of intrigue.
Aside from a shared predilection for grilled meats, there are
few similarities between the average American table and those
of Syria or Lebanon. No matter how many times I pull apart a piece
of pita bread and scoop up a creamy portion of baba ghanoush,
I always find the prospect of enjoying a meal that hails from
the far corner of my daily universe a veritable cultural excursion.
Tucson certainly doesn't lack for venues celebrating Middle Eastern
cuisine, but for authenticity, taste and ambiance, you'll be hard
pressed to find better Bedouin repast than that served at Le Mediterranean.
Although the menu contains dishes from various parts of the Middle
East, the primary influence is definitely Lebanese--not surprisingly,
since that's the homeland of chef-owner Joseph Abi-Ad. Le Mediterranean's
national preferences can be detected not only in the subtle variations
in several dishes, but also in the overwhelmingly hospitable manner
with which guests are treated the minute they walk through the
door. Every detail is designed with the supreme satisfaction of
the customer in mind, a feature distinctively Lebanese. No country
in the world elevates hospitality to a grander height.
Although Abi-Ad hopes to attract families to his restaurant (note
the New Generation menu for guests under age 12), Le Mediterranean
is an establishment classy enough for any special occasion. Soft
lighting, linen tablecloths, wine lists and live entertainment
accompany a comprehensive menu which covers the spectrum, from
simple to sublime.
Begin a meal at Le Mediterranean by ordering the smorgasbord
of appetizers offered on the meza combination platter. With size
options for the appetites of two, four, six or eight people, this
platter is a monumental sight to behold as well as consume. We
conservatively opted for the two-person combination ($22.50),
and were shocked to find a serving adequate for a small army:
a dizzying platter of stuffed grape leaves, hummus, baba ghanoush,
falafel, bite-sized cheese turnovers, spinach pie, chicken wings,
tiny meat pies and a cold relish tray with carrots, radishes and
black and green olives. An order of kibbie nayeh, a raw, ground-meat
mixture of beef, bulgar wheat, onions, cinnamon, cloves and allspice
was also thrown into the mix.
Every item sampled was delicious. The grape leaves, slightly
larger than the usual versions served around town, were simply
some of the best I've ever tasted. Not a trace of briny nastiness
clung to the leaves, which were themselves amazingly tender and
stringless. The straightforward rice stuffing was slyly flavored
with flecks of chopped tomato, onion, lemon juice, olive oil and
a measured dash of cloves or allspice. The hummus and baba ghanoush,
made respectively with puréed chickpeas and eggplant, were
smooth, creamy and roundly flavored with garlic and sesame butter.
The mouthfuls of pastry were delicate and savory, regardless of
whether the filling was meat or vegetable-and-cheese based.
The only unpopular item was the raw meat kibbie, which even after
overcoming our aversion to its uncooked aspect was something of
a disappointment. Rather like a meatloaf before it's baked, kibbie
may be an acquired taste not yet in our repertoire. The ground
meat is blended with cracked wheat, onions and sweet spicing,
and can presumably be troweled onto pita bread for easy consumption.
While the flavors were not unpleasant, the texture was a bit of
a challenge--too closely resembling paste, as opposed to a more
familiar pâté. We'll stick to the stuffed grape leaves
next time.
Entrees come with a choice of soup or salad; the daily soup specials
featured on our visit effectively lured us away from a traditional
plate of greens. A velvety smooth tomato-vermicelli was superb,
its rich red broth beautifully blending the essence of vine-ripened
tomatoes with allspice and pasta. The chicken couscous was heartier,
peppered with several chunks of tender meat, vegetables and semolina
grain.
Following the advice of those who'd come before us, we honed
in on the dishes featuring grilled meat. I'd heard no one fired
up a spit with more finesse than Abi-Ad, and this flattering rumor
turned out to be the absolute truth.
In particular, Abi-Ad knows his way around lamb, the most highly
vaunted meat in Middle Eastern cuisine. The lamb chops ($19.95)
were exquisite, four tender ribs of meat cooked over an open flame
to just the right medium-rare state, and hesitantly seasoned with
a touch of salt, pepper and a fresh lemon. To redeem my lament
of a few weeks ago about a regrettable breading masking the wonderful
flavor of lamb at another restaurant, here this sweet meat was
redeemed tenfold by its inherent succulence.
Also marvelous was the beef kabob ($14.95), chunks of tender
sirloin permeated with a savory marinade of lemon, olive oil,
garlic and aromatic spices accompanied by a large skewer of grilled
vegetables, including tomato, onion and green bell pepper.
A child's portion of the beef shawarma ($6.95), marinated strips
of grilled meat served with an order of rice pilaf, completed
our evening's samplings. Pronounced "good" by the young
charge on that side of the table, the meat was tender and flavorful,
and predominantly lemon flavored. Served with a tahini (sesame)
sauce, the shawarma is well suited to its warm pita shell.
Chicken, a few fish specialties (shrimp kabob, broiled halibut
or Mediterranean trout served with garlic, cilantro, lemon and
butter), and a short list of vegetarian selections (moussaka and
stuffed cabbage) admirably round out the rest of Le Med's offerings.
On Friday and Saturday nights, a belly dancer snakes her way
gracefully through the dining room, engaging in both traditional
and contemporary interpretations of her art. I couldn't tell you
what was more entertaining: the actual dance, or the pas de deux
that frequently took place between the performer and either a
member of the waitstaff or a customer trying to get discreetly
to and from the bathroom.
A dessert tray, covered with a bevy of sweet mysteries, is presented
following the main course. Although sorely tempted by the usual
baklava, rice pudding (laced with rose water), and several pastries
featuring ground nuts or dates, we were simply too stuffed to
partake. Next time we'll skip the appetizers and hold out for
one of these honeyed confections, along with a nice stiff brew
of sweet Arabic or Turkish coffee.
Le Mediterranean has so much to recommend it, even the stop-and-go
traffic you'll need to endure to get there on any given night
is worth it. Once inside Le Med's doors, your equilibrium will
quickly be restored by the great food, comfy surroundings and
entertaining diversions. There are definitely no mirages here--Le
Mediterranean is the real deal.
Le Mediterranean. 4955 N. Sabino Canyon Road. 529-1330.
Open 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Mondays. Full
bar.
V, MC, AMEX, checks. Menu items: $1.95-$19.95.
|
|