Winger's Takes The Traditional Diner Theme Into A New Era. By Rebecca Cook THE AMERICAN DINER is making a comeback. Once found almost exclusively along the nation's highways or tucked along urban wharves or railways, diners were characterized by quick service and decent food at reasonable prices. In the "nouvelle" craze of the '70s and '80s, the diner concept fell out of favor and, aside from a few joints featuring poodle skirts and car hops, virtually vanished from the mainstream restaurant scene. Now, however, it would seem people might be tiring of the endless parade of weird culinary combinations and are seeking instead real comfort food. Winger's, a restaurant subtitling itself "An American Diner," attempts to honor tradition while infusing its menu with modern touches. For instance, you won't find mashed potatoes, but you will find Caesar salad; no apple pie, but there is New York-style cheesecake; and, of course, there's plenty of burgers to choose from, including a tempting veggie variation. Part of Winger's charm and its ultimate challenge is a diverse menu that attempts to please everyone, a next-to-impossible goal that seems destined to fail. On one recent visit, however, it was apparent this broad-spectrum approach to dining was having at least limited success: There was a table of teenagers, a few tables of seniors, and several families seated with young children. With a bright neon sign outside to attract people cruising down East Grant Road, Winger's interior surprises slightly with a Pullman car motif. What makes this choice rather interesting is that the mode of transportation most honored in this establishment is not trains but airplanes--even the kids' menu has instructions for making a paper airplane printed on the back. Apparently not wanting to leave the automobile industry out of the picture, Winger's additionally serves all its kids' meals in cardboard boxes shaped like classic American cars. It's an odd juxtaposition of themes, not unlike the menu itself. Some might take Winger's to task for hitting the middle of the road so squarely it offers nothing surprising or scintillating. But there's no denying the consolation of a thoroughly decent, moderately-priced meal that satisfies everyone in your party. True, it's not Janos, but it's head and shoulders above the multitude of flame-broiled, finger-lickin', billions-served fast-food alternatives. Winger's, a national chain, got its start in downtown Salt Lake City, where it was known for its Buffalo wings and ribs. They're still the featured specialties of the house, along with a variety of sandwiches, salads, burgers and entrees ranging from fajitas to chicken-fried steak. The house salad at Winger's ($2.69 alone, or $1.89 extra if ordered with an entree) was a cut above the bagged iceberg lettuce version, but just barely. A few croutons, some red cabbage shreds and a few wedges of tomato unimaginatively rounded things out. But everything was crunchy, fresh and generously portioned. The Caesar salad ($4.49) had lots of crisp romaine, croutons, fresh parmesan and a dressing that, while flavorful, was lacking in the bold splashes of garlic and anchovy some of us hold dear. Soups change daily at Winger's, and I was lucky enough one day to sample a bowl of tomato-based tortilla soup ($2.99). Slightly spicy and redolent with cilantro, the velvety soup also contained chopped tomatoes, corn, carrots, celery and onion. Winger's Buffalo wings, which are fried crisp and topped with a signature sauce, are spicy and slightly sweet (appetizer $4.99, entrees $6.99 or $9.99). Served with celery sticks and ranch dressing, these are tasty noshies unlikely to offend with the overpowering heat of the original upstate New York wings. The St. Louis-style spareribs, which can be ordered full or half rack ($13.99 or $8.99) and topped with either a barbecue (my choice), teriyaki or "Buffalo" sauce, were juicy and tender with barely a trace of fat. Moist towlettes are thoughtfully provided. The chicken-fried steak ($7.49), the menu item that no self-respecting diner would be caught dead without, was also very good--a tender, thinly-sliced cut of beef lightly breaded, fried until golden and then crowned with cream gravy. I had a hard time, however, coming to terms with the fact that there were no mashed potatoes to accompany this dish. The baked potato was nice, but hardly a substitute for an additional conveyer of gravy. The grilled chicken ($4.49), served with the aforementioned choice of sauces, was less successful as an entree. It was dry and flavorless. Along with the ribs and the wings, Winger's is also a purveyor of burgers, a popular menu item judging by the number of plates I saw whiz past. The classic burger with cheese ($4.78) was a medium-sized, well-done patty served with lettuce, tomato and onion. It wasn't the kind of burger that wins a "Best-of" contest, but it will hit the spot if you're experiencing a serious Wimpy attack. A tavern-battered cod sandwich ($4.69) was a vast improvement on the typical fishwich theme: a long kaiser bun covered to its borders with a golden fried piece of cod topped with melted cheddar cheese, lettuce, pickles, tomatoes and tartar sauce. An ice cream-based decadence known as asphalt pie ($3.45), composed of mint chocolate-chip ice cream, Oreo cookie crust, caramel sauce and whipped cream, completed our meal with an added touch of delight. Sure, it's a little campy, and the food won't linger in memory for decades to come. But it's pretty tasty overall, affordable and fun for the kids. These days, that's often enough. Winger's. 5523 E. Grant Road. 751-6306. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and noon to 9 p.m. Sunday. Beer served. V, MC, AMEX, DC, Ch. Menu items: $1.99-$13.99.

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