For anyone who loves movies, there is no more iconic place than Hollywood. This corner of Los Angeles is compelling, secretive and above all, fascinating.
A 38-hour blast in Hollywood is like taking a sip of a refreshing martini; it only leaves you wanting more.
From Tucson it’s roughly an eight-hour drive to Hollywood, from Phoenix, about five and a half hours. Leave early and there’s enough time in the day to check into a motel/hotel and see what’s happening on that famous boulevard.
The convoy on this trip consisted of James Shaffer, a published writer who wrote a script for a Bass Reeves movie; Richard Tate, a Phoenix actor who regularly gets parts on local (to Phoenix) commercials, as well as movie and stage productions; one reporter, who went for the adventure of it; and finally, Oro Valley’s own real deal Hollywood producer/director, Mark Headley, who led the tour.
Stay
Talk about unglamorous — still, there are two major points in pared-down Motel 6’s favor. One: location. For convenience you cannot beat where this motel sits. Mere steps — no exaggeration — off Hollywood Boulevard, find a room where the television works, the pillows are fluffy and the sheets are clean. Even the elevator works.
Walk half a block out the front door, turn left onto Hollywood Boulevard and take a short walk to Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, Madame Toussaud’s Wax Museum, the beautiful El Capitan Theatre, (next door is El Capitan Entertainment Center, where Jimmy Kimmel Live! is taped), the Dolby Theatre where the Oscars are given out and, of course, the iconic Hollywood Walk of Fame.
The other point in this Motel 6’s favor is price: $141 a night. Beat that anywhere on the boulevard.
Parking beneath the motel costs $20 a night. It’s tight and sometimes cars get parked in, but an attendant will move things around so everyone can get out.
Note: Bring your own shampoo.
Play
Hollywood Boulevard is nothing if not fun, and there’s plenty to be had under the big, white hillside sign that everyone knows.
Depending on the hour, take a leisurely drive down Sunset Boulevard, where at least some of Hollywood still plays. All around are places seen in the movies and in the news, such as the Viper Room, once owned by Johnny Depp and where actor River Phoenix sadly took his last breath. Everyone who’s anyone in the rock world has played or at least hung out here. Check the website for upcoming shows.
Further down the street is Whiskey a Go Go. During the 1960s, Johnny Rivers fronted the house band and the go-go dancer as we know it today (wearing fringed skirts and white boots) made her first appearance here.
Comedy clubs abound on Sunset Boulevard, beginning with the Laugh Factory. Of course, this is not the only place on Sunset to see who’s up-and-coming. There’s also the Belly Room, the Ruby and the Comedy Store’s Original Room, to name just a very few.
Go this far and you’ve passed the Directors Guild of America headquarters. It’s only open to members and their guests, but it’s worth a drive by because this is the place where the likes of Ron Howard and George Clooney make deals.
Headley, the aforementioned producer, opened the door on this trip.
The building’s vast lobby walls are adorned with black and white photos of what is often referred to as Hollywood’s elite. Casual visitors (tourists) will recognize the people featured.
What really stood out during this visit was the amazing $15 million movie theater, paid for by Steven Spielberg and Martin Scorsese among others, according to Headley. After a 90-second peek at last year’s “Top Gun” movie, one person in the group said, “That theater was worth every penny.”
If there’s still time, catch a movie at El Capitan. Its marquee lights up and there is always a little extra live show that comes with a movie ticket.
In the morning after check-out, walk down to the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel. Grab a delicious cup of coffee in the cafe next door, then casually stroll into the lobby and be amazed by the magnificence of this aging queen. Built in 1927 and funded by a group that included Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks, Sid Grauman (of the theater across the street) and Louis B. Mayer, the Roosevelt features the architecture of a bygone era. This is Spanish Colonial Revivalist Style at its best, with soaring ceilings and wrought iron chandeliers. Nowhere else is there a more peaceful place to spend a few minutes in the morning.
Evidently Marilyn Monroe, Montgomery Clift and Lucille Ball all liked the hotel as it’s said their ghosts haunt the rooms and hallway of the place.
There is more than ghost hunting to do for both guests and non-guests at the Roosevelt. For one, the hotel hosts movie screenings by the pool. Check the website for information.
After that, take a quick ride to look through the bent-back tulips in the Beverly Hills we all see in our imaginations, with mansions that go on forever and peek out through decorative but secure iron gates.
It’s not all like that. Situated among the lesser, though still stately, homes is the Spadena House, better known as the Witch’s House. This is private property and not a place where the curious can hop the fence to get a better look. Still, the sidewalk is public property and the occupants evidently know it is a place of curiosity, because they have placed a rather large witch figure in a front yard tree.
The last street to gawk at like a tourist is Rodeo Drive. Pass by Spago, celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck’s restaurant. It is only open for dinner.
Finally, finish this quick tour at a place that is well worth the wait. A stop at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery is certainly an interesting combination of morbid curiosity, true respect for the work of the famous people who are resting here and simple awe. It’s free to enter, of course, and smaller than one might expect. Still, there are plenty of people we all know to whom a visitor may pay their respects.
Mel Blanc is buried there, as is Johnny Ramone and Hattie McDaniel. Actors Anne Heche, Stella Stevens and Rudolph Valentino are interred in the nearby mausoleum. This is not the place for a picnic, but it can be a pleasant walk on a nice afternoon and the lives of those you pass are remembered. Tiffany windows and ceramic tile make the outside restroom building rather splendid. Peacocks make their home here and a Paramount Studios warehouse is the back neighbor. Also, Toto from “The Wizard of Oz” is buried there.
Evening hours are not wasted. Movies (not all of them scary) may be screened here. There are also overnight pajama parties, concerts and more. Check the website.
Headley admitted that once while filming a nighttime scene here for a movie he was making, a truck had a mishap.
“It was an accident,” Headley said. “We were filming late one night at Hollywood Forever Cemetery, which is located right behind Paramount Studios. One of my grip trucks accidentally backed into the monument for Johnny Ramone, knocking it over. I scrambled the entire cast and crew to help put the monument back in place.”
If nothing else, a visit to Hollywood Forever Cemetery is a reminder that it doesn’t matter how much money we acquire or how much fame we attain, we all end up the same.
Eat
One great thing about Southern California is its restaurant culture. There’s a good restaurant on every corner and one in between so diners have their pick.
On a short trip like this, it pays to plan. Begin with a drink at the epochal Musso & Franks Grill. This is one of the places, according to Headley, where both deals and careers are made. Built in 1919, the restaurant was meant to appeal to New York transplants by mimicking New York establishments. Think dark wood and red leather.
The bar is staffed by red-jacketed bartenders who know their historical stuff, and can bring out old fashioneds and Manhattans, even Shirley Temples.
The table menu is interesting, featuring the kinds of dishes diners might have seen if they were Mad Men. Begin with Musso’s traditional steak tartare ($24), baked escargot ($18) or sardines ($15).
For the main course try one of the daily specials like corned beef and cabbage or duck confit. There are also grilled lamb kidneys and bacon ($29), lobster thermidor (market price) or the original fettuccine alfredo ($29).
Finish with a slice of chocolate mousse cake ($16) or New York cheesecake ($16).
En route to the restroom, check out the old, wood phone booths with pay phones still inside.
While on the drive down Sunset, stop at Carney’s for a couple of chili cheese dogs ($5) and some trainwreck fries. Visitors can get good hot dogs almost anywhere (Pink’s and Tommy’s, to name a couple), but what makes this place interesting is the train car that is the restaurant. A ramp leads to the door which opens to a low-ceilinged room. Check out the menu, which is posted on the wall, then sidle up to the window and order. Watch them cook or find a table and wait. They call customers up when their order is ready. Headley reports that movie deals are made here as well.
Another place where deals are made, and the last stop on this tour, is Nate’ n Al’s Delicatessen. This is a true delicatessen. Pastrami sandwiches? Check. Latkes, applesauce and sour cream? Check. Corned beef hash? Check. You may also order the rest of the breakfast stuff, even bacon.
Sit with your back to the wall and you might spot a recognizable face, because Hollywood eats here.
Homeward
This quick sip of a trip will more than fill up an empty weekend and leave anyone who loves movies wanting more.
Headley, who cannot seem to hold still, filmed the tour with the help of both Shaffer and Tate. He has put together a movie about it, “Hollywood Road Tour,” which will screen at 6 p.m. Sunday, Sept. 29 at Downtown’s Screening Room.
Hollywood Road Tour
WHEN: 6 p.m. Sunday, Sept. 29
WHERE: The Screening Room, 127 E. Congress Street, Tucson
COST: Tickets are $10
INFO: Mark Headley, markheadley12@yahoo.com
